Showing posts with label 1997. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1997. Show all posts

February 6 (1976, 1981, 1997, 2003)
45 Days Past the Winter Solstice

2/6/76 ... ~ just after sunset on the west slope of the northern sierra, some forty-five days past the winter solstice. skies have cleared except for the low cumulus clinging to portions of the sierra crest. the desolation wilderness peaks visible as a soft white mass through the pines. a quick scan of the high country with binoculars revealed no snow plumes ~ the winds have quieted considerably. the four day old moon hangs high in the west ~ last night in close conjunction with jupiter, from what i could see through small rents in the clouds, though sirius is also very bright in the early night sky. a ceaseless dripping as snow melts off the roof, though it should freeze soon tonight.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


2/6/81 A nostalgic morning ~ should write in all lower-case letters, as in the hoary past. Ruffled waves of cloud progress across the sky, the sunrise colors painted in streets along cloudy avenues, a thoughtful dawn, a quiet neighborhood, a cheery fire, a guitar-playing man.

Yesterday, a glimpse of Tinker Knob beneath a deck of clouds. The Royal Gorge's snow-white cliffs stained a soft yellow by the filtered light beneath the clouds. Very nice heart-feelings; look up canyon, think, ‘I'll look up this canyon thirty years from now... and remember.’ Perhaps I'll read this page, and strain to remember, and wish I had been taking more time to write. Or, read this page and think, 'you poor fool ~ little did you know the collapse of civilization would occur in 1982' ~ or some such scornful judgment.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Upper North Fork American River Canyon
Shaded Topo Map Rendering, centered on New York Canyon

Russell Towle, February 7, 1997
Click to enlarge


Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 17:08:43 -0800
To: NorthForkTrails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Canyon Creek Trail

Hi all,

Brad C. wrote:
... On a different subject, my wife and I found our way to the Canyon Creek trail for the first time a few weeks ago. WOW! As you drive by on the freeway you'd never guess something so impressive is right down the hill in such an unassuming looking drainage. Actually I wasn't sure I had gone the right way into the diggings (behind the auto shop), but Tim Lasko confirmed to me later that was the way you'd gone in. There aren't any signs, but are we trespassing being out there? Just curious.
I'm a little surprised about Brad's trespassing question, because so much about the Gold Run Diggings has been posted to this email list over the past two or three years. Sometimes I forget that Gold Run is in my own backyard, and forget that, despite its proximity, it was many years before I became aware of where the property lines fall, and what is public land, and what is private.

Click to enlarge
Briefly, Brad was trespassing from the instant he turned off the frontage road, until he reached the North Fork of the American River, at the base of the trail. Except that, over about a quarter or a third of a mile, from the crossing of Potato Ravine down to the Old Wagon Road, he was on BLM land.

Almost all the land Brad trespassed on is part of 800 acres owned by Gold Run Properties, and now for sale. From Potato Ravine down to the river, the private land is within the special Gold Run Addition to the North Fork American Wild & Scenic River. It was the intent of Congress, in 1978, that the private lands within this Gold Run Addition be purchased. So far they have not. The BLM is entrusted with administering this part of the W&SR, but the BLM has no funds to purchase lands.

The 800 acres, roughly, extends from the Gold Run to the Dutch Flat exits on I-80, and from there south through the Diggings. In the southernmost part of the Diggings there is a lot of BLM land. However, one disjunct parcel of the 800 acres includes almost the entirety of the Canyon Creek Trail itself.

Many people support BLM acquisition of the entire 800 acres, which comprises most of the Gold Run Diggings, rather than just the roughly 200 acres within the Gold Run Addition to the W&SR.

Just how to find the money for BLM to purchase this startling beautiful property, with its so very exceptional Canyon Creek Trail, with its outstanding and significant history, with its rich botany and equally rich paleobotany, with its maze of old roads and trails—just how to really pull this off, remains a mystery.

Cheers,

Russell Towle


The acquisition of this property by the BLM or a conservation organization, to secure it for the public interest, and to protect it from exploitative development is complicated by the presence of contaminating mercury from the former extensive gold mining, which, as I understand it, by law PREVENTS the BLM from acquiring it, even though at one point a land exchange deal had been worked out to all land owners' satisfaction.
Two years after the above missive, on 7 February 2005, Russ had formed his thinking on the matter into specific recommendations that he submitted to the BLM during a public comment period. In 2016, it all still remains a worthy goal.

– Gay


February 5 (1981, 1983, 1997, 2002)
French Toast Mountaineering Club; and “Inca Ski Jump Ridge”

2/5/81   Before dawn. ... C & G & S & I went to the Pinnacles of Giant Gap a week ago or so. Saw many eagles & noteworthy things.”


the Dutch Flat Chapter of the  

French Toast Mountaineering Club

makes an ascent on skis of... Castle Peak!*

2/5/83   Morning. The penniless condition persists, but I did manage to go X-C skiing yesterday. Steve Rafferty and I ascended Castle Peak and finished skiing down in the starlight. Steve fell a bunch of times trying to telemark (and succeeding occasionally) but we both had a good time. Should have left the mountain earlier. What was a kind of delicate cornflake slush on the way up through lovely, open, juniper-dotted expanses, became breakable crust in starlight. Miserable stuff to turn in. Lovely clouds wafted by in the sky, cumulus, lenticular clouds, cirrus.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Ray-traced depiction of the North Fork American River canyon derived from digital elevation data.
Giant Gap is at the bottom, Green Valley just beyond. The Sierra Crest ridge is in the far distance.
Rendered by Russell Towle,
February 5, 1997
 

Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:42:32 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Brief Adventure

Hi all,

Yesterday the intrepid Catherine O'Riley and I made a late start on a Gold Run adventure. Our objective: the curious ridge dividing Canyon Creek from Indiana Ravine, which springs from the north wall of the North Fork canyon, plunges steeply, then levels off about 700 or 800 feet above the river, before plunging even more steeply to the cliff-bound rapids below. This ridge is quite conspicuous from other viewpoints around the canyon, as from the Canyon Creek Trail itself, or, say, from Lovers Leap. [This is the "Diving Board", as mentioned in other posts.]

We parked at the end of Garrett Road at the BLM gate and followed the old road down to the Secret World where the stone cabin stands. Scrambling up the east side of the pit we passed the reservoir with its huge dry-laid stone wall, at the terminus of the Indiana Hill Ditch, and followed the ditch's mossy berm as it wound through the live oaks and manzanita. Guessing at an appropriate point to break away southward and seek the strange ridge, we soon found the remains of an old human trail winding down the slope, steeply in places. The ridge blends into the general slopes at this upper level, but as soon as it began to have some slight topographic definition, we noticed a curious groove or trench running directly down its summit.

Having seen such grooves often enough before, I knew that a heavy object or objects had been dragged down this ridge, undoubtedly something to do with mining gold.

Patches of brush along the crest of the nascent ridge forced us downslope to the east, into the refuge of stands of Canyon Live Oak, shady enough to suppress shrubs, but each time we returned to the ridge crest, there we'd find the trench again, and some unequivocal sign of an old human trail. The ridge began to get sharper and more rocky, and suddenly, although blocked in many places by shrubs and tree branches, we found ourselves following a most amazing stretch of trail.

Here the miners, in order to facilitate the movement of the heavy objects farther south along the ridge, had been forced to build up a trail on the steep west face of the ridge, which here had sharpened to a single wedge of rock. Large dry-laid stone walls bolstered a trail often four feet wide. Occasionally we were forced off this trail by huge dead buckbrush bushes. With Catherine's little saw I cut several branches back, but a lot needs to be done to open this old trail up properly.

Click to enlarge
 Soon after this remarkable section of the ridge, we found ourselves on the level part of its crest, in a lovely glade of live oaks, with views to the east, not only of Giant Gap, of Lovers Leap and the Pinnacles, but of the snow peaks fifteen or so miles away, east of Yuba Gap, at the head of the North Fork of the North Fork; but we also gained unobstructed views of the Big Waterfall on Canyon Creek, the Canyon Creek Trail itself, the Terraces, and the trail to the Big Waterfall from the Terraces. To the west we could see Pickering Bar and the inter-fingering spur ridges in the canyon down to and past Fords Bar. We could also see Roach Hill, at the head of the Blue Wing Trail, near Iowa Hill.

Here the trail seemed to end. However, we saw faint suggestions of its continuation on the west side of the ridge, and unequivocal signs of an old trail on the east side of the ridge, which latter we followed for a ways; it appeared, from its steepish gradient and its tendency to bear westward, to be making for the river near Pickering Bar.

Click to enlarge
Considering that both Indiana Ravine to the west and Canyon Creek to the east had once been fitted with extensive systems of sluice boxes and undercurrents for extracting the fine gold from the tailings of the hydraulic mines, it seemed likely to me that this ridge had been used to drag sawed lumber down to the level part of the ridge, whence it could be dragged more or less directly down the slope to either side. As for the continuation of the trail on the east side of the ridge, this to me seemed less likely to have been an artifact of the sluice box construction and maintenance, and more likely to be a vestige of an older, Gold-Rush-era trail.

Click to enlarge
So it was a great adventure to find these old trails and the lumber slide and the tremendous viewpoints. We even found some California Milkmaids in bloom right up on the summit. The hike out was middling strenuous, and we were running about half an hour late when we reached Catherine's truck. My kids were only a little miffed when I finally picked them up at school. It would have been nice to spend the afternoon out there, exploring around, but, well, another day. For my own part I could not stop thinking about that little diving-board ridge, or ski-jump ridge, or whatever one should call it, for the rest of the day.

Catherine kept on trying to come up with a good name for this ridge. She doesn't like Diving Board Ridge. She suggested Ridge of the Lost Trail. The rock work along part of the trail was so impressive, I thought of the Incas. Maybe Inca Ski Jump Ridge. Doesn't that have a sufficiently noble and poetic aspect?

Click to enlarge.


May 14 (1953, 1976, 1984, 1997, 2005, 2007)
Placer Co. Trails Ordinance 1953 ~ Books ~ Lost Camp

Auburn Journal

May 14, 1953

Action to Determine Validity of Newly Passed Trails Ordinance

An ordinance establishing a series of public riding and hiking trails and roads in Placer County was approved by the Board of supervisors at a meeting Monday. An action designed to test the validity of the ordinance was filed a few minutes later by Attorney T.L. Chamberlain, representing lumber companies and other large property owners in the upper part of the county.

Chamberlain obtained a temporary restraining order from the superior court, preventing the enforcing of the ordinance until its legality can be decided.

Judge Lowell Sparks set a hearing in the matter for Monday at 1:30 p.m.

The ordinance, which has been the subject of three public hearings, had the support of sportsmen’s and other outdoor groups in the county.

It drew criticism from stockmen and lumbermen. After making several amendments to the ordinance the board of supervisors passed it by a four to one vote on a motion by Anderson, seconded by Paolini. Boyington cast the dissenting vote.

The ordinance lists a large number of existing trails and roads, mostly located in the mountain section of the county, as public. Penalties are provided for closing or blocking the trails.

Unlocked gates and fences that can be readily let down are permitted in areas where stock is pastured.

A fine of $500, six months in jail, or both are provided for violations.

The action contesting the ordinance was brought by Fibreboard Products, Inc., the Ideal Cement Company, the Stockton Box Company and the Nicholls Estate Company.

Listed as defendants are the County of Placer, District Attorney Al Broyer, Sheriff Charles Ward, County Clerk Lillian Rechenmacher, and County Recorder Clayton J. Goodpastor.

The complaint claims the ordinance to be void and invalid in that it purports to declare private property of the plaintiffs to be public property, and to take plaintiff’s property for public use. The plaintiffs claim that if the ordinance is recorded it will constitute a cloud on the title of the property.

The complaint asks that the ordinance be declared null and void, that the defendants be restrained from enforcing it, and that the clerk and recorder be restrained from recording the maps which outline the trails.

5/14/76 early morning. such hot weather we've been having [.…]

i have been inventorying the gracie mine timbers and the windows i have on hand, and drawing different basic designs. i don't want to rush into it: this may be my home for quite a while. i don't have enough gracie timbers for rafters.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


5/14/84   Monday morning: one of the most beautiful I've seen. Awoke to filmy high clouds, diffuse light. But as soon as a few sunbeams made it through, a bank of fog appeared like magic and Giant Gap, combing over the Pinnacles Ridge. It has been swelling and lifting, until now it hangs near the canyon rim.

May go skiing this evening with Richard Swayze. Signal Peak”

[Russell Towle's journal]


May 14, 1997

Today I picked up Greg from kindergarten at noon, we met Neil Gerjuoy there at the school, and drove up to Drum Forebay exit, and back across the penstocks to the old Towle Bros. narrow-gauge railroad roadbed. We drove along the road which follows the old railroad, until they began to diverge, and we followed the rail route. In places it has been used as a skid trail or logging road, and in places it has not been disturbed all these years, and the ties are still there and in place.

We crossed the big slide and stayed with the roadbed for a mile or so, when it intersected a logging road. Here we followed the road, which seemed perhaps to have been cut into the old roadbed. After a while we headed out, Greg was complaining, and we followed the logging road as it slowly climbed to meet the old Pacific Turnpike, which now has power lines along it, and parallels and ugly clear-cut, which we followed back to the Forebay. Here we left the road and hiked over to a cement spillway, which we ascended to the lake, and, after examining the place where the water thunders into the reservoir, circled around to where a 6-foot-diameter penstock descended the hill. This we followed, walking on top some nine or ten feet above a cement slab which lay beneath the penstock. This brought us directly down to the narrow-gauge again, along the first “road” section. Another half mile and we back at the truck.

We returned to the spot where we’d lost the narrow gauge, and descended further on the road, until we came to a place where a visible skid trail headed west from a log deck area. It was all choked up with bushes, but, Greg asleep in the truck, we followed it a long ways, until I managed to find portions of ties below the roadbed, confirming that it was indeed part of the old railroad. Then we returned and found still more of the roadbed, on the other side of the road. This we followed a fair distance and found many ties, and an entire trestle, spanning a creek, with huge old timbers lying about, large square nails embedded in them. There were quite a few incense cedar 12x12’s. We could not go all that far, because Greg was sleeping. We drove back up the road, and looked for more roadbed at another site (where we had initially entered the road on our hike). Here we met with no success. We decided to return and follow the line up from below to establish the missing link.

It made for a nice day.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Caterpillar Photos
[North Fork Trails blogpost, May 14, 2005:
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2005/05/caterpillar-photos.html ]
A photo of tiny, days-old Monarch butterfly caterpillars on Purple Milkweed:


And another picture which better illustrates the flowers of this milkweed:


The photos were taken in the North Fork canyon south of Gold Run at about 1850' elevation, in a steep meadowy south-facing slope. As a child I loved the Monarch butterfly caterpillars, living jewels, and developed a facility for finding their chrysalises, also like jewels.

As an adult I mysteriously lost the childhood instincts which often led me to these caterpillars. Years and years go by without seeing any. So I was pleased to find these.

This is a banner year for wildflowers. I have made more trips into the canyon than usual this spring, often to the HOUT, and have watched as one species finishes its bloom, and another begins. The larger blue bush lupine has set seed, but the Harlequin Lupine is still in full bloom. This area is on the cusp of transition into the late-spring peak bloom; the grasses are setting seed and turning brown, while new flowers like Blue Field Gilia, and the shrub Mock Orange, always late-season species, are making their first appearances.

The poison oak flourishes as I have never seen before, and mosquitos gather in menacing clouds if one stops to rest on a steep trail. And they don't just threaten; they act, and quite vigorously.


[The link referenced in this segment is now defunct but if you would like to purchase a digital copy of either of these books, use the email address at the bottom of the left sidebar to inquire.]

Date: May 14, 2007 1:17:52 PM PDT
To: Russell Towle
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Books for Sale


Hi all,

At:
http://home.inreach.com/rtowle/books/books.html
you can now order two of my books, in the form of PDF files on CDs:

1. "Nine Expeditions to New York Canyon."

From 2001 through 2005 I made nine expeditions to reach the 560-foot waterfall in New York Canyon, of which two failed to even gain a sight of the thing. The failures form a part of the story. I had my camera with me on most of these adventures. This book consists of nine PDF files, each of which contains my original description of the trip, as written for the North Fork Trails email list, combined with the photographs I took on that expedition (if any). There are, then, hundreds of high-resolution photographs, each with a caption, spread among these files. Photographs of waterfalls; photographs of flowers, of fossils—of the Horrible Snakefish! Several other PDF files are on the CD: a preface; a bunch of maps and landscape renderings; and a sketch of the rather complicated geology of that area, with geologic maps.


2. "The Dutch Flat Diary of Isaac Tibbetts Coffin."

I.T. Coffin was a gold miner and photographer in old Dutch Flat. He was also quite a hiker. Here is an excerpt from Coffin's brief memoir, embedded in his diary:

*******
One of the Coffin Clan
Pedigree—born November 20th, 1832, in Tuftonborough, N.H. Father, Weare Coffin, of Alton, N.H., the champion athlete of the state in his day, and was a farmer. Mother, Mary Canney of Tuftonborough, N.H., a pretty and good woman, a school teacher and tayloress. Parents both died before reaching 50—both buried in the City Cemetery, in Salem, Mass. I was the youngest of 4 children. Brother A.F. Coffin died in Philadelphia in 1852 and lies buried in Laurel Hill cemetery, and Sister Julia A. Dinse, died at Dutch Flat, Cal., in 1869, without issue. Sister Mrs. E. Jewell, now lives at 280 Sixth Ave., New York.  Grand Father was Johnathan Coffin of Alton, N.H., and Great Grand Father was Major Ben. Coffin of Newburyport, Mass., who fought in the revolutionary war.  Grand parents on both sides were pioneer farmers into New Hampshire. Grandmother Canney was a noted woman in her day, and a brave hard working woman, who went to the mill with a sack of wheat on her back and was one of the good old sort. She once Shot a bear that came out of the woods and got after the sheep in the barn yard, and no man at home, so she got down the Old flint lock queens arm, loaded with pieces of lead, and pointed it in through the yard fence, and as the bear came in range, as he chased the sheep around the yard, she pulled it off and wounded the bear, so that he was caught and killed. She finally in a fit of sulks hung herself to the high bed post with a skein of yarn of her own make.
*******

Each book sells for $29.95, which includes tax, shipping,and handling.


Lost Camp; a Joke in New York Canyon
[North Fork Trails blogpost, May 14, 2007:
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2007/10/lost-camp-joke-in-new-york-canyon.html ]
Lost Camp is an old hydraulic mining town, south of Blue Canyon, established in a rush, in 1857 or thereabouts. No buildings are left, although two are shown on both the USGS 7.5 minute "Westville" quadrangle, and on the official Tahoe National Forest (TNF) map. I have a web page devoted to Lost Camp [archived here ].

The historic China Trail drops to the North Fork of the North Fork of the American from Lost Camp, and then climbs to the crest of Sawtooth Ridge, to the south. The trail was built in 1862. Forty-three years later, it was absorbed into TNF's system of trails. The old road to Lost Camp from Blue Canyon (Lost Camp actually predates Blue Canyon) has been open to the public since the 1850s.

Like many another old road and old trail, the Lost Camp Road and the China Trail pass through a mixture of private property, and public TNF lands. Ten years ago I began urging TNF to acquire the private lands at Lost Camp, and thus to secure public access to the China Trail. Nothing has been acquired, and we are now on the verge of losing access to road and trail alike.

Some of the private lands were subdivided and sold. The new owners wish the General Public would just go away forever; then the new owners could have the China Trail all to themselves. The summer before last, a "Private Road" sign appeared at the beginning of the Lost Camp spur road, near Blue Canyon. More recently, one of the new owners has been chasing people away at gunpoint, and trying to convince the other new owners to put a gate on the road.

I hear that Placer County does not regard the Lost Camp Road as a "county" road.

I thought to talk to TNF about the old road; after all, it shows on the old TNF maps, and is identified as TNF System Road "16N51," on the 1962-66 map. So I called Phil Horning at the Nevada City office, and spoke with him for about an hour, this afternoon.

Phil is currently much involved in TNF's OHV Study. Like other National Forests, the Tahoe is trying to regulate OHV use. This is a bureaucratic exercise of demonic and nightmarish proportions. It is an effort spanning several years. Now, I myself like our historic foot trails; I wish them to be preserved, protected, maintained, and put back on the maps—for hikers. Astoundingly, hardly any TNF employees have ever heard of these trails, and still less have they set foot on them.

I have been warned by sympathetic TNF employees, "Do not register your historic foot trails in the OHV study; if such a trail were to go on our map, it would (eventually) be designated an OHV route." So I have held my peace.

You see, the TNF OHV study will not examine each road and trail on its merits; TNF will not decree, "this trail is open to motorized uses, but that other trail is not." No. TNF will inventory all existing OHV routes, roads, trails, cross-country routes, whatever. Some few will be closed to OHV use, but most will become formally and explicitly open to OHV use; an Interim Order is about to be promulgated, which will add 50 miles of OHV routes to the existing two thousand miles or whatever it is.

When the final Decision is made, the most likely form it will take is that any and all roads, trails and routes now in use by OHVs will remain in use, *but* all further "cross-country" travel by OHVs will be illegal.

That is, at the bottom line, this vast bureaucratic exercise will in effect retain the status quo, but give TNF rangers more power to limit cross-country travel.

So. Back to Lost Camp. I was really interested in TNF's sense of whether the Lost Camp Road is a public road, or not; whether it is a TNF System Road, or not. I asked Phil, and I could hear the rustle of a large map unfolding through the telephone. It took a while to zero in on Lost Camp (Phil, despite twenty years at TNF, had never heard of the China Trail, never set foot in Lost Camp), and then he said, "Well, the road does not appear on the OHV Study Map at all."

How could that be? The Lost Camp Road is on the current official TNF "visitors'" map, the big map which unfolds to over two feet square.

I asked. Phil replied that, by its absence from the OHV Study Map, the implication is that TNF no longer considers it to be a System Road. Hence it does not appear on the map. And *hence* it will likely be closed to OHV use; for it has no formal standing, any more, as a Forest Road. It will count as "cross-country travel."

Note the conundrum here. Suppose we agitated the Lost Camp Road issue, and we went to TNF, and we said, "It is your job to conserve public access to public lands; you must keep the Lost Camp Road and the China Trail open to the public.

And suppose TNF listens, TNF agrees, TNF says, in effect, "Golly, you are right! It was once a System Road, and it shall forever be a System Road; the China Trail was once a System Trail, and it shall forever be a System Trail."

Oops! Now, like almost all System Roads and System Trails depicted on the OHV Study Map, the Lost Camp Road and the China Trail will be deemed "open" to OHV use!

Phil helped me sort out these imponderables.

He also told me an amusing story of a visit he made to the fabled New York Canyon and its giant waterfall, with John Skinner, at that time TNF's Forest Supervisor. John is on this email list, and may vouch for the veracity of the story.

According to Phil, they set out to find the giant waterfall, descending the ridge immediately east of the East Fork of New York Canyon. This eventually brought them to the top of the falls; but the cliffs there do not lend themselves to good views, so they made quite a scramble out of dropping below the falls, and then they climbed some kind of rocky eminence for a view.

They had some trouble descending from this eminence, and then were faced with the climb back up to the falls, and then, more climbing, up and up and up, to their vehicle. I mean, we're talking a couple thousand feet, maybe. This was a major effort, and the vicinity of the falls is rife with menacing cliffs. It is a dangerous place, and what's more, hardly anyone goes there. It really looks like no one has *ever* gone there. It is an amazing place.

So. They reached the top of the falls again, and Phil spotted some plastic flagging, some yellow flagging, tied to a tree. Below the flagging, he found a bottle nestled into a small cairn of rocks, and in the bottle was a message.

John and Phil were astounded. Who could have ever visited that place? And flagging! And a bottle! And a message in the bottle!

So they eagerly opened the bottle, and eagerly read the message.

It recorded a pleasant visit to the giant waterfall by such-and-such a *girl scout troop*!!!

After a time they came to realize that some TNF surveyors had visited that spot only days before; the surveyors had known of Supervisor Skinner's impending visit, and contrived a little joke.

At any rate, such is some news from Lost Camp and New York Canyon.



December 14 (1977, 1979, 1984, 1985, 1997, 2005)
A Glimpse of Earth's Halo ~ More Cloud Bows

12/14/77   morning. clouds and occasional sprinkles persist.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/14/79   sunny morning. nights have been restless since the burn, and I tend to fall asleep early, wake up around midnight, and have a heck of a time sleeping again.

last night though, i was rewarded by a brilliant show. i rolled up a big joint around midnight, turned off the light, and lay back on the couch. it's near new moon now and the stars are very bright. i admired them and saw a shooting star. then another. and another. i could see, i estimated, 1/15 of the sky out my big window, and there were at least ten meteorites per minute visible. i moved the couch over to the window so i could see more sky. from my new position jupiter and mars high in the east. i noted that the meteorites were continuing to fall at a steady rate. Some were faint traces; some were fireballs glowing brighter than venus for an instant.

then i was rewarded by a faint shimmering golden curtain that whisked across the sky and vanished: my first glimpse of the earth's halo, the aurora borealis. i watched and waited for a long while after that, but it did not return.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/14/84   a rare, sunny morning [...]

Skiing planned for tomorrow with Kelly and Mitty, but a storm is forecast to arrive and deep snow down to 2000' elevation.”

[...]

The canyon wren prowls around the cabin, as has become its habit on sunny mornings. Sometimes it spends so much time exploring and gleaming tiny insects from every part of the cabin, that I begin to find its high-pitched chirp-buzz of a call-note irritating.

I've been out skiing quite a bit so far this year. Six or seven times.

My latest videogame is ‘Ms. Pac-Man,’ which I go to the Baxter Cafe to learn. I've become something of a fixture there.

The Smarts Crossing lawsuit has been duly filed and I served Seely myself, about a month ago. Since then I've done a title search, a tedious process, which has led me back to an Edward Pickering, who patented a homestead on the property in 1920.

I've also spent time at the Auburn Library, going over the microfilm of the old Dutch Flat Forum, published back in the mid-1870s. I've searched for a record of Smarts Crossing, and have not found it yet.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


December 14, 1985

Early Saturday morning; I'm wearing my down jacket, no fire, the days are too warm for a fire, the cabin holds the heat well enough in the evening hours, and the morning chill is soon abated.”

[...]

Rich abjured me to come and ski at Sugar Bowl. So I will. Maybe I'll finally get really good at telemarking this year. I mean, I'm already very good, and can ski all of the advanced runs at Sugar Bowl on my skinny skis; but I want to be terrifically good, and ski them all fast, jumping, with grace and elegance.

[...]

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/14/97

[...]

Since I wrote the previous entry, I was contacted by Dave Lawler, and did some mapping and reconnaissance work for him, involving a mining claim near Forest Hill, embracing a shady canyon with many tall Douglas firs and an understory of Pacific yews and Torreyas. Also some real tan bark oak trees, rather than the shrub form of that species, which is all I have ever seen this far south in the Sierra. Some hundred-year-old hard rock gold mines are on the property, with an old cabin, and the creek formed the dump for the Mayflower hydraulic mine long ago. It is BLM ground and Davis helping the claimant to demonstrate that it is in fact a viable mining claim. However, it is not, as it stands, although mining on a small scale has taken place in the small volume of hydraulic mine tailings left along the creek, over the past ten years, by a pleasant if alcoholic man who resides in the cabin. Which is a dreadful mess. In fact, there is trash all over the place. So it wasn't the most palatable job, to help defend a man's right to trash public land and post his “no trespassing” signs all over the place, while pretending to operate a mine.

I met with Dean Decker of the BLM last week too, and took him out to see the petrified wood parcel, and show him the road giving access to it, which may have been used to make the most recent large theft of petrified wood. Perhaps the parcel will be given some kind of “special resource area” classification, which will help in preventing further thefts and collections of petrified wood.

Dave Lawler and his girlfriend Pat came over on Friday, and Greg and I took them out to see the property corners I have discovered in recent weeks, in the petrified wood area. Greg is so wonderful, so friendly. As we walked through the diggings with the last light of day streaming in beneath the clouds of an approaching storm, and gilding the forest before us, he took their hands and walked between them.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


More Cloud Bows
[North Fork Trails blogpost, December 14, 2005:
The truly inimitable Julie reports on a recent adventure. As usual the geography is a little, well, vague. There are two trails to Mumford Bar, one from the south, near Westville, on the Foresthill Divide, the other from the north, near Government Springs, on Sawtooth Ridge.

The former is reached via Foresthill, the latter via Emigrant Gap and Forest Road 19, turning left onto the Helester Point Road. Julie went in via Government Springs.

To reach the North Fork is a hike of a few miles. The canyon is 3000 feet deep here and is deepening as one goes east.

She fords the river, and ventures up the American River Trail to the base of the Beacroft Trail, the next trail east, going up the Foresthill Divide from Mumford.

This is a hike of a few miles.

Then she and her friend return.

About cloud bows: the best treatment I have found was in a coffe-table book full of gorgeous color plates titled "Clouds of the World," by an airline pilot who always flew with his camera. This book came out around 1978 or so and is likely long out of print. Essentially, there are many types of ice crystals, in cirrus clouds, and related clouds. Each type has its own peculiar angle of refraction. Hence each type of cloud bow is located a certain angular measure from the sun; we call the line from our eye to the sun, zero degrees, and on the same line, produced behind us to infinity, is the anti-solar point, at 180 degrees. A particular type of cloud bow may be found only at an angular distance of 57.xxx degrees, for instance.

Sun dogs are those commonest cloud bows located on the "ring around the sun," the angular separation of which, I am embarassed to report, I do not recall; it might be 35.26 degrees.
So familiar sounding, the nature mysticism and cloud bows. Now when I see
them, they are still just as magical, but in a different way. Not because
they mean something, but just because they exist and I am lucky enough to
see them sometimes. I saw one yesterday (Tuesday) after a magnificent hike
down Mumford Bar with Kathi. We were in full sun almost all the way down,
and there was no snow in Emigrant Gap. At the river it was cold and shady ,
naturally, and it was painful to cross the water. 34 steps to take and the
pain sets in after 24! We proceeded up past the Mumford cabin, and lunched
at the wonderful roaring and thundering grotto near the bottom of Beacroft.
The day did warm finally in the bottom of the canyon and our crossing on the
return trip was much more pleasant. Then back into the warm sun up the
slope. We decided to top off the day with a visit to Big Valley Bluff, and
that is where we were treated to a sight of the sun dogs. One on either side
of the sun, as it settled into some low clouds. The moon was high and quite
large. The snow on surrounding peaks took on a peculiar steel blue color as
the sunset dwindled to dusk, truly one of the more dramatic sights I've
seen. And sun dogs too!   Julie
Quite a nice long walk! Thanks, Julie!



December 4 (1976, 1977, 1979, 1980, 1987, 1989, 1997) Resonating the Froth ~ Thermosiphon Frustrations
“Imp-Ling” ~ Petrified Wood Preserve?

12/4/76 […] i dreamt of my cabin last night, but it was larger and more spacious; i looked at it as i stood inside, admiring the beams and the angles, and commented that it really wasn't so very small… now the moon is nearing the full, and as often happens i am feeling better about myself and people than in the late days of the fourth quarter. nowadays about the only concession i make to astrology (which i once studied vigorously) is that i have noticed a connection between what goes on and the phases of the moon. not an iron-clad connection, just a slight statistically improbable resonance of some sort. and i go so far to speculate that it may be meaningful to say ‘i am an early spring’ or ‘i am a high summer’ or ‘i am an onset of fall’ ~ not aries, leo, libra. as far as the planets’ baleful gaze, i can't see where it enters in, except that when there is a bright evening star i figure the collective soul of mankind may be enlightened a little more than usual ~ but that is only my fantasy-play.

[…]

synchronicity wins again. there are stars out there in space, many galaxies of billions of stars apiece, and it goes on and on and even farther on—enormous forces at work, spinning, spinning, our earth a tiny spinning jewel within jewel within jewel, and there are jewels within the earth as well. geologists speak of the plastic deformation of solid rock under enormous pressure and/or heat. i wonder how it happens that in a universe of immutable forces at work (why not say, at play?), that something happens to reality, something akin to plastic deformation. maybe there is a frothy surface layer of reality beneath which operates the infinite, the eternal, the irresistible progression of matter and energy, of universe-at-large. and maybe in this foamy frothing surface, plastic deformation is commonplace: we humans are real lightweights on the universal scale of horsepower, but we have energy & we use it & the froth responds. ants drag beetles about. how the energy of our infinitesimal personal dramas resonates the froth i don't know. But it does seem to do so.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/4/77 ~ mid-morning. trying to get the sink figured out. clouds moving in fast out of the northwest ~ a solid deck of cumulus grading into altocumulus in places, intersecting the mountains at about six thousand feet elev. a large fire on the other side of the canyon somewhere seemed to somehow generate its own cumulus cloud. an intricate affair with many colors, reds, oranges, browns and golds at the base, and a range, from deep blue to white so bright ~ a few lens-like wisps trailing off about convinced me that the alignment of smoke and cumulus cloud was coincidental rather than causal, but i'm still not completely sold—the clouds still look disturbed in that area, but are much thicker now.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/4/79   i saw jon yesterday and the clutch is finally working. i should get it today. ah. so many things to do. should make a list. i'll work on the meadow this morning. plant some seed. rake and wheelbarrow.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/4/80    A monstrous storm rolled through and may not be past yet. 3" in rain gauge. I ventured over to Grass Valley in pounding rain to see if there might not be more information about the Holly at the store where I bought it, as indeed there was. and I wish I'd got a hold of it before I'd started this project. Oh dear.

It is, as I myself had found, hooked up all wrong. And among other things, for thermosiphon to be effective, one needs a foot of rise in every two feet of run between the Holly and the tank. In my case, that would be about five feet I'd need, from the hot lead out of Holly to the bottom of the tank. Also, going down & back up to the the Holly is out. Also, 3/4" pipe should be used between the Holly and the tank.

As it turns out, to achieve proper thermosiphne I must either move the stove to the tank or the tank to the stove. Or, possibly, use an additional tank for the stove and run the hot in it to the present tank. I have access to two more steel tanks at the McClung's, a 100-gallon tank & a 40-gallon. The 100-gallon tank would be excellent for solar heat storage as well. I could mount it on the outside wall, opposite the stove, and well above to enhance thermosiphon. Put a wood cover around it, insulate it, & run the hot water from it to the drain of the other tank.

The other tank would work as is if I moved the stove to where the bass end of the piano is now and plumb directly through the wall between.

Or, I was astounded to realize last night, I could use my existing system as is if I found a valve that would open and shut automatically. I could have a fountain out in the yard & simply open a valve every time I need to circulate the water, i.e. whenever a fire burns in the stove, as I already have a system that works—but only by my independently discovered semi-ram open-shut cold water faucet trick.

So why not use it as it is? Surely a valve exists that would flap open and shut ~ that's how a ram pump works. An air chamber may be required. Last night I was consumed with glee at the thought of a hot water system circulated by the sputtering fountain in the yard. These Rainbird sprinklers seem to operate in pulses of water; perhaps one of them could be turned on at a low rate ~ couldn't exceed the flow of the spring ~ and that would be that. Might, in fact, be the cheapest way to resolve my present quandary, which I was led into by my own impatience and lack of knowledge of proper thermosiphon hook-up. If only the store had given me the owner's manual when I bought it a year ago, I'd be in great shape. As it is, to achieve thermosiphon now I have to undo much of what I've done, spend a lot of money ~ ouch. Ouch!’”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/4/87   Morning; a storm makes its way into the Sierra, and winds roar beneath grey skies. No rain yet, but it can't be long.

[…]

Saw Otis Wollan yesterday, who was elected to the Placer County Water Board; he expressed interest in learning to telemark this winter. So great; and I owe a letter to Eric Peach. […]

[Russell Towle's journal]


December 4, 1989

My “journal” has been less than irregular this year, and what few pages exist are scattered in my notebooks. Here is another.

It is a Monday, in the afternoon, and the sun breaks waves warmly across the couch. I am taking a break today: the new cabin is roofed, walled, windowed, and doored, even somewhat trimmed, with a homemade woodstove and a large slightly curved couch, courtesy of Alex and Teri. In other words, it is closed in, and the great effort may now slacken. Two months, of which more than a week was lost to rain, have passed since I poured the footing on October 1.

Gay is in town picking up the boys from school so I am utterly alone. Today is so perfect, like fine champagne, except warm. Very warm. A few shreds of bright cirrus clouds float by from time to time, but have no effect upon the sun, and just make the sky seem even bluer.

Janet Julia, affectionately known as Impling, or sometimes, Imp-Ling, is three weeks old. She is doing fine.

Yesterday Gay and I and JJ drove down to Palo Alto & up Page Mill to Struggle Mtn., where Greg and Iris were married.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


12/4/97

Thursday evening, Janet’s friend Sadie is over, the kids and I just watched “George of the Jungle,” a rather silly movie which delighted them.

I have been working on maps for the petrified forest project a lot, and a new proposal which I will send out to the BLM, Jim Gould, Rex Bloomfield, Wing Lee, Dave Lawler, et. al. Also, I have been walking around out there and finding some of the property corners. Today I finally found the third one on the west side of Wing Lee’s 56-acre parcel, starting from the northwest corner going south. These first three are railroad rails driven into the ground. I have found that quite a bit of petrified wood remains on the more easterly of the two BLM parcels. However, there is far and away more petrified wood, and in larger chunks, on the 56-acre Lee parcel. It may prove impossible to ever convince Lee to sell this parcel. I have been racking my brain trying to figure how to inspire him that a sale would be a good thing. It seems all this racking will simply be to no avail, Lee will stoically persist in the simple and blameless sentiment, that he does not wish to sell.

It has been a pleasure to walk around the BLM ground out there, it is very nice. Part of it was never mined, and although logged off 130 years ago, a fine forest has grown up since then, with large ponderosa and sugar pines, and douglas fir, black oak, dogwoods, even a solitary Pacific Yew. I have spent some time with the clippers opening up old trails and mining ditches.

Some huge pieces of petrified wood are on the Lee parcel. If only. My new proposal is simply for a preserve, no “interpretive center,” and only limited public access: school field trips, paleobotanists, geologists, historians, etc. It may be that only the Gould parcel and the BLM parcel will make up the preserve. In which case, access to the BLM becomes a problem, and perhaps some sort of trail easement can be acquired from Ed Stadum.

I am desperately broke, need to make a car insurance payment, have no money, wish the State Library would pay me for the Coffin diaries I sent them over a month ago. No money for Christmas gifts. Same old same old. How to get money? How?”

[Russell Towle's journal]



November 28 (1977, 1979, 1980, 1985, 1986, 1997)
“Second-Known Ascent of Spooky Tooth”

11/28/77   morning. clear. oh how the morning sun comes into my cabin, so nice and warm. yesterday i went into dutch flat a little early, saw no one astir at neil's, and decided to drive around a bit before the 10 o’ clock meeting. i headed up to monte vista and took the road that winds up the southwestern end of moody ridge. i thought i'd look around and see if i could see some of the cabins that were recently red-tagged by the building inspector. however, after climbing up out of canyon creek onto the middle slopes of the ridge, i saw a flat beside the road with a couple of enormous oak trees. i parked ruby and walked around. almost immediately my suspicions were confirmed: i found a flake of chert that had been worked by the indians. soon i saw a couple of old grinding rocks nearby, broken ‘manos’. not many flakes, probably just an occasional camp, although i didn't look around very much. a dried-up spring nearby. so instead of finding a red-tagged cabin i found the signs of an entire culture that was red-tagged in its way, over a hundred years ago. as kurt vonnegut would say, ‘and so it goes.’

[...]

then i went out to ron's and we drove out to moody ridge, in between my place and lovers leap, where ron [Ron La Lande] and his two brothers are considering the purchase of a forty-acre piece with fine views up the canyon. ron then took me out to see the big oak just west of lover's leap. i have never checked out that part of moody ridge before, and want to go back soon for a leisurely stroll. there is an unusually pure stand of young ponderosa pines near there that must be a quarter of a mile long. then we returned to casa loma.”

[Russell Towle's journal]



See 11/30/79 entry for an account of this adventure, which earned the above notation on the cover of this volume of Russell's jounal. ‘Spooky Tooth’ is what Russ dubbed the formerly-labeled ‘absolute ultimate’ spire, the furthest north spire of the Pinnacles Ridge, the southern rib of Giant Gap.

11/28/80   Well. The great Battle of the Shower rages on. After writing yesterday morning, I scouted around for odd fittings to see if I could make up a replacement for the street elbow. Sure enough ~ a 1 1/2” nipple and a regular elbow did the trick. So, just at dawn, came the longed-for moment of filling the system with water, lighting a fire in the woodstove, and heating that water up. However, I soon discovered that the thermosiphon wasn't working, as the hot lead out of the Holly unit in the stove remained cool while the cold line in—coming from the bottom of the tank, some 20" above the Holly—the cold line became hot as a pistol. Since the other line—the hot line out of the Holly—has a check valve before it joins the cold water supply on its way to the tank, (whew!) no water could come from the tank or the cold water supply to replace what ever hot water left the Holly via the inlet. So the only cold water return for such water would have to travel within the same pipe. If it traveled at all?

So. I suspected, and still wonder if there might be some sort of air bubble trap in the Holly which prevents normal thermosiphon flow. Incomplete siphon. However I discovered that if I turn the cold off and on at the sink, I can force water to flow in the right direction. I haven't determined if it only circulates while I'm slamming the valve open and shut or if the condition persists on its own for a while. I've been trying many different combinations of opening and shutting valve and bleeding lines but nothing seems to be effective in curing hotspots on the inlet except opening and shutting the cold water to the sink. Why? My theory is that it briefly lowers the pressure in the cold water supply, thus allowing the warm water out past the check valve and up to the tank. But it won't hold. In fifteen minutes it will reverse; the inlet will grow very hot while the outlet cools—how can this be? What is happening? I've been trying to understand the logic of plumbing.

Now work commences on the road above—boulders crash down the hillside. Will they smash my forest to smithereens?”

[Russell Towle's journal]


November 28, 1985

Rain, rain, rain. Some snow during the night. The battery is caput on the Toyota, and it must be coast-started: in the snow? I am going to the McClungs’ for Thanksgiving dinner. [...]

[Russell Towle's journal]


11/28/86   [...]

Later… after midnight… still snowing.

Snowing?

Yes. It began snowing this evening about ten-thirty.

One inch or so is on the ground.

Just remembered today that at one time, some twenty-five years ago, I hit upon the idea of what I called to myself ‘algebraic’ writing-style; and I early on considered Julius Caesar to be the original master of that genre. I think I developed that picture from studying sentence diagramming in the seventh grade, algebra in the ninth, logical symbols in the seventh, and read in and about the divine Julius around the same time.

This idea of “algebraic” style I carried forward into the 1970s; I recall explaining it to Susan B. (while helping her write a grant proposal) in 1977—she said something to the effect of, “I never heard of that before”—no, of course not, that's another Towle original!

’Tis frustrating as all get out to not have electricity when I need it; tonight, for instance, I couldn't review my Hades tape—not enough juice in the batteries. They are in a state of permanent discharge, it would seem. Near-discharge.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


November 28, 1997

Just after midnight, after Thanksgiving dinner with the McClungs. Gay and Gem and Gus are away on a camping trip, so it was just Janet and Greg and I.

I’ve been very busy lately, most lately, kind of burned out and depressed. The large house going up out along Lovers Leap road is even worse than Jon’s old place, next door, so far as imposing itself upon the canyon and the view of Giant Gap from Casa Loma, etc., goes.

I have initiated a more serious effort to establish a trail connecting Lovers Leap and Garrett Road, which has led to a lot of time working on maps on the computer, so some progress has been made in Mathematica, and I have been converting the MMA graphics to EPS and bringing them into PageMaker to add lines and legends.

Since my last entry I have made two major discoveries in the realm of zonohedra, first, what I am calling the zonohedral “completions” of convex polyhedra, wherein every face of a convex polyhedron is used to form a set of vectors from the center of the polyhedron, to the corners of the polygon, and then each set of vectors is used to make a zonohedron; so that a bunch of zonohedra radiate from one common point. A non-convex zonohedron is usually formed. Then the deepest “cups” between the radiating zonohedra are found and filled with more zonohedra, until, after some undetermined number of stages of filling cups, eventually a convex zonohedron closes up.

The other discovery is of an infinte family of non-convex zonohedra related to polar zonohedra, wherein the same vectors are used, but taken in the order of a star polygon, instead of cyclically as in a regular convex polygon; so that strange zonohedra with interpenetrating faces result. These sometimes look kind of like sceptres.

I have some of my drawings and POV renderings at an art gallery in Nevada City, in a show running for the month of November.

I have supplied graphics for a cover for The Mathematica Journal and another math journal in France.

Working also on maps and stuff for the petrified wood project. Another theft of a ton or so took place this fall.”

[Russell Towle's journal]



November 4 (1975, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1997, 2007, 2012)
Flights of Fancy

1975

Click to enlarge
[Russell Towle's journal]


11/4/86   Tuesday, noon, hot and sunny, leaves drifting down, lying around reading, vote later today, yesterday took the chainsaw up to the knoll and cut brush, also cut the arch tree on the trail into firewood.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


11/4/87   Night. Clouds blanket the sky, and a strong northeast wind rocks the forest, roaring; unusual, for clouds and northeast winds to drive in harness. [...]“

[Russell Towle's journal]


11/4/88   [...]  So now sunshine streams bright flags of gold into the canyon, blue fog billowing below, and I wonder what the day will bring. Two days of light rain laid the dust.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


November 4, 1997
Giant Gap Trails
by
Russell Towle

One of the most beautiful scenes in California—which is saying a lot—is found in Giant Gap, a gorge over 2,000 feet deep on the North Fork of the American river, near Dutch Flat. The view may be enjoyed from many different places, the best known of these being Lovers Leap, on Moody Ridge, and Iron Point, to the east. Many photographers and painters have attempted to capture the mystic beauty of Giant Gap over the years, including Thomas Moran, a famous 19th-century landscape artist. Moran executed a fine etching of Giant Gap, in the 1870s.

The soaring cliffs and pinnacles of Giant Gap, with the North Fork roaring far below, only reveal the full spectrum of their glory to those who approach from many sides, at all seasons, and from dawn to dusk to dawn again. An opportunity exists to make these lovely and varied views available to all of us, and to provide access to a historic trail down to the North Fork itself, along Canyon Creek. I propose that we construct a trail from Lovers Leap to Garrett Road, crossing Canyon Creek at the head of its dramatic waterfall section. Over much of this distance, the trail would follow old mining ditches.


A map depicts this proposed trail, with abbreviations for various locations along its line, as noted below, in parentheses. The trail is only depicted approximately, as a line of circles. I-80, Garrett Road, Moody Ridge Road, Bogus Point Road, and Lovers Leap Road are also shown.

The trail would traverse, for the most part, Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands. Perhaps few in this area are aware that a substantial portion of the old hydraulic diggings at Gold Run are on BLM land; in particular, these BLM lands include the Indiana Hill pit, on the edge of the North Fork canyon at the end of Garrett Road. Beginning at the BLM gate at the end of Garrett Road (GR), the trail would follow the road itself to the Indiana Hill pit (IH). This is quite an interesting place; I sometimes call it “the secret world,” because it is somewhat hidden, and walled in by high banks of gravel. One path into this secret world leads through a tunnel!

A mining ditch serving Indiana Hill took water from Canyon Creek, about a mile upstream from the steep waterfall area. Let us call this the “Indiana Hill ditch.” Although now overgrown with brush in many places, if cleared, it would make a fine trail. At first, it follows the rim of the main North Fork canyon, but gradually turns into the smaller gorge of Canyon Creek. At some point, yet to be determined, a trail would have to be constructed down to Canyon Creek (CC) from the ditch. Over part of its length, this ditch traverse private lands, and either by purchase or easement, the BLM should acquire the rights to use the Indiana Hill ditch as a trail.

At the creek, an old mining trail leads from the Gold Run Ditch & Mining Company tunnel, all the way down to the North Fork of the American. Let us call this the “Canyon Creek trail.” The creek was treated as a giant sluice box in the old days; at the end of the water season, in July or August, the entire length of the creek down to the river was meticulously cleaned up, recovering the gold which had escaped the main sluice boxes in the tunnel and the diggings above. So, this trail was constructed; at first, as it parallels Canyon Creek, it is pretty, but unexceptional; but as Canyon Creek fully enters the main North Fork canyon, a series of high waterfalls, separated by pools and riffles, make up the rest of its course to the river. The old trail had spur trails leading back to the base of each waterfall, and a few of these are still intact. However, the main trail itself is in relatively good shape, and, hugging steep cliffs, winds back and forth all the way down to the river.

It is so difficult to reach this part of Canyon Creek, and this old trail, that few people even realize it exists. Those who have walked it proclaim it one of the most remarkable and dramatic trails in this part of the Sierra. I certainly agree.

From Canyon Creek, and the old trail described above, a new trail could be constructed, climbing up to the old hydraulic mines near Bogus Point (BP), at the southwest corner of Moody Ridge. Here again we are on BLM lands. The trail should be made to switch back and forth, from the wall of Canyon Creek’s gorge, to the ridge dividing Canyon Creek from the main North Fork. This ridge leads up to Bogus Point, and once the mining pits are reached, an existing trail continues on gentle grades to the Bogus Point road.

Another ditch serving the Bogus Point mines drew from the ravine immediately west of Lovers Leap. Let us call this the “Lovers Leap ditch.” From the end of the aforementioned road at Bogus Point, a new trail could be constructed, making the mild ascent of the knoll just to the east, which is marked “Bogus Point” on the 7.5 minute Dutch Flat quadrangle. The Lovers Leap ditch is met at this knoll. From here to near Lovers Leap, the trail, following this old ditch, is actually within Giant Gap, just below the rim of the canyon. Over much of its length it is on BLM lands, but in several places, privately owned parcels on Moody Ridge drape down below the ditch. In these cases, where residential development is a distinct possibility, the BLM should purchase the encroaching parcels.

The Lovers Leap ditch is fairly easily followed even now, a hundred years since it was ever maintained. We need only cut a few manzanita bushes and fallen trees out of the way, and one of the prettiest trails in California would be our reward. Many fine views into Giant Gap are had from this old ditch. After about a mile of walking, from Bogus Point, the ditch turns into the ravine west of Lovers Leap, where a rare old stand of pines and firs is met. Here a trail must be constructed descending into, and climbing out of, the ravine. On the east side of the ravine, the trail should be constructed so as to switch back and forth between the sunny rim of the main canyon, and the shady old forest flanking the cliffs, climbing gradually to Lovers Leap (LL).


November 4, 2007

The white bead line indicates the line of sight to be rendered in a flyover animation.

The North Fork American River, at Green Valley, near the old hotel site and spring.
4 November 2012


California Wild Grape

(Vitis californica)

Photo by Gay Wiseman


September 3 (1976, 1985, 1997, 2004)
1866 Tommy Cain Route, Revisited

9/3/76 ~ dawn, in wren shack [...]

well, i guess i am ready to go into debt with a vigor. let's see—$8300 for the land—$120 land taxes—and i need right now some stuff to nail down onto the beams tim and i framed together. the floor frame is a thing of beauty all by itself. 4x6 posts and beams, with some 2x4 diagonal braces here and there.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


September 3, 1985

The equinox approaches and day lengths change rapidly. The wonderful dynamism of fall is accentuated by the cloudy, cool weather of the past several days.

[...]

Today—Tuesday—a million loose ends curl and twist in my brain, yearning, supplicating for attention. I should write letters to: Tahoe National Forest (TNF); Mather AFB; Sierra Club Legal Defense; I should work at the McClung's; I should work on Nicholas' plans; I should work on getting in my firewood; I should work on finishing my article on Lovers Leap; I should work on cleaning up around my cabin; I should work on many, many other things  [...]

Now that I've got the ‘shoulds’ out of my system—what? Well at least there's checking the mail. Overdue to hear from Gray.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


9/3/97

Made a neat hike into the North Fork of the North Fork with Dave Lawler and Neil Gerjuoy a few weeks ago, we ventured upstream into the remarkable gorge with its waterfalls.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


The 1866 Tommy Cain Route, Revisited
[North Fork Trails blogpost, September 3, 2004
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2004/09/1866-tommy-caine-route-revisited.html ]
After Wednesday's mixed results in finding the 1866 Tommy Cain Ravine Route (TCRR), of the Fords Bar Trail, going from the North Fork, up, Ron Gould and I drove out to Gold Run and south on Garrett Road to try to find the TCRR from the top, down.

Well, not exactly that, but like that.

On the Dutch Flat 7.5 minute quadrangle, note the ridge in the center of Section 16, T15N R10E. It so happens that almost the entire eastern 1/2 of Section 16 is public land, mostly BLM, but with a chunk of strange California State Lands thrown in for curiosity's sake (see the Tahoe National Forest "big" map: this parcel is shaded blue). On this ridge is a surveyed point with elevation 3007 feet.


We found a rough route to the center of Section 16, found a sign marking the State boundary, almost on the 3000-foot contour, and made a series of explorations off the end of the ridge, through some of the deadliest manzanita I have ever seen. It ranged from huge and elfin-forest-like, in which case one could often slither through somehow (possibly by crawling), to young and stringy, in which case it made an impenetrable thicket. Bear trails were common in more open areas, of which there were many, but in my mind's eye it is all manzanita, and all bad. Bad manzanita!

Off the main spur south of Point 3007 we found The Groove, that clearest of all trail-lines we had seen Wednesday; clear, but really too steep to be a trail, and likely as not marking the route mining equipment had been skidded down to the North Fork a century or so ago. We climbed back up and regrouped.

To make a long long story somewhat short, our final foray invited us to descend, lower and lower, through a convenient gap in that horror of manzanita. My best guess as to the upper crossing of Tommy Cain on the 1866 TCRR was that it occurred near the 2400-foot contour. At a certain point we steeled ourselves to drop just that low.

Canyon Live Oak forest, with rare old Ponderosa Pines and Douglas Fir, and patches of severe manzanita on every side, allowed our descent on quite steep slopes, in the heat of the early afternoon. Beguiling bear trails were everywhere, often, over a distance of fifty or one hundred feet, resembling old human trails. But then the bear trail would split into smaller trails, and these were positively inhuman.

We found more marijuana growers' garbage; plastic pipes, chicken wire, even a 1000-gallon plastic tank.

Finally we dropped to the 2400-foot-contour, and by golly, we found the old thing, the 1866 TCRR. In appearance it was much like the best of all bear trails we had seen, but what set it apart was that it continued, and continued, and continued, unsplit, undiminished, a narrow track, often six inches wide at best, but, after walking it for a few hundred yards, there was no doubt. It was the TCRR and it was making for Tommy Cain Ravine.

We followed it up to the crossing, a little higher than I'd guessed, perhaps 2480' elevation, and found it continuing on the far side, plain as could be.

At a certain point over there it seemed to fork into higher and lower lines, and we could see we were within an ace of converging upon the crest of the ridge dividing Tommy Cain from the ravine-to-the-west. This ridge would then be followed on up north, and then finally, the TCRR would break east to the old-time intersection with Garrett Road: in 1866, the Road From the Mines. For Garrett is quite an old road, and led right on down to Indiana Ravine, the site of the original discovery of gold in the high Eocene-age river gravels of the Gold Run Diggings, in 1851 or 1852.

My time had run out, I had to pick up my son from school, so we retreated back down the TCRR and then up and up and up to the State Lands sign and our secret bear trail over to Garrett. I was only five minutes late.

It was quite a satisfying day. A trail which is depicted on an 1866 map, but on no later map that we know of, was found, still passable after all these years. I saw not one faint sign that it had been used by humans for any number of decades. No old cut branches, no nothing.

It was a great, albeit brushy, day, around Point 3007 and Tommy Cain Ravine.

More exploration is needed.



July 20 (1997, 2000, 2002, 2006)
Landscape Renderings ~ Sailor Flat Trail
Letter to the Governor

7/20/97   [...]
Last night I had one of my strange and intricate Green Valley dreams, which happen once in a blue moon. In this one I found an old diary of mine which described a trip to Green Valley many years ago. The dream became a mishmash of passages from the diary combined with my “current” experiences there. As always there were houses down there. I found incredible petroglyphs, and visited an aged Chinese man who recited poetry. There was a certain waterfall which I had forgotten and then rediscovered. And more.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:29:45 -0800
To: Diana S.
From: Russell Towle
Subject: landscape renderings
X-Attachments: :Macintosh HD:196471:Giant Gap.jpg: :Macintosh HD:196471:NF_low.jpg:

Hi Diana,

It was good to talk with you today. I hope we can find a way to get the section corners into UTM coordinates as we discussed. I am attaching two JPEG images, renderings of surfaces created from the USGS DEM data set. Although I can render such surfaces in Mathematica, I often export the elevation data in a form which can be used in the freeware ray-tracer POV-Ray. Then mountains cast shadows and there is complete freedom of camera placement, field of view, lens length etc. Also, atmospheric effects may be introduced.

Giant Gap.jpg is a view of Giant Gap from the east looking west, or rather, southwest, down the canyon. Lovers Leap may be seen on the right. A hazy atmosphere was used.
NF_low.jpg is a view looking east and northeast up the North Fork canyon. Moody Ridge and Lovers Leap (labeled) may be seen in the left foreground. The camera is roughly above Rollins Lake (probably farther west; I think a long lens was used in this rendering). Quite a number of DEMs (over 20 I think) were merged to make this rendering. The terrain extends east to the Sierra Crest. The broad volcanic mudflow plateau of the Foresthill Divide is very evident. Behind the words "Lovers Leap" a portion of the North Fork of the North Fork American can be seen, with some of its headwaters on Monumental Ridge and Black Mountain. Part of the upper South Yuba basin is also visible on the upper left, while on the upper right part of the Middle American is visible—the French Meadows area, and part of the Granite Chief Wilderness.


Cheers,

Russell Towle


Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 07:59:38 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Big Granite Creek


Hi all,

Thursday last Catherine O'Riley, son Greg and I drove from Colfax via Mineral Bar on the North Fork to Iowa Hill, thence via Sugar Pine Dam to the Foresthill/Soda Springs Road, and turned left and upcountry. From Mineral Bar no road crosses the North Fork for 35 miles upstream, until The Cedars, at about 6000' elevation.

Thunderstorms were brewing over the high country east of us, already showing decent development at 10:30 in the morning, but skies were clear above.

Our destination: the Sailor Flat Trail. We used Catherine's 4WD truck, and passing the turnoffs for the Italian Bar, Mumford Bar, and Beacroft trails, we continued to Sailor Flat, a wet meadow at about 6200' elevation, and drove down the rough road to the left (north). This road follows the ridge dividing Sailor Canyon on the east from New York Canyon on the west. About a mile down one reaches the vicinity of the X-Ray Mine and other gold mines, drift mines in the Eocene-age relict channels. These ancient streams were buried under thick sequences of the young volcanics, including, exposed along the road, the "pink welded tuff" unit of rhyolite ash, dated at ~22 million years, and thought to have erupted from a volcano near Carson City.

The Big Granite Trail and the confluence of Big Granite Creek with the N. Fk. American River are at  upper left.
The road steepens and narrows into a jeep trail and Catherine threw her rig into low range. Eventually we reached the terminus of the jeep trail at Oak Flat, only 1600 feet or so above the river, a considerable advantage in an area where the canyon is over 3000' deep. After scouting unsuccessfully for a view of the 500' waterfall in New York Canyon (Oak Flat is on the crest of the dividing ridge), we started down the trail.

At the first switchback we paused to paw through the slaty shards of the Jurassic Sailor Canyon Formation, looking for ammonite fossils. We saw many, all incomplete. Then the plunge began. This trail, especially in the upper part, is unusually steep. For a time it was the main line of supply for the La Trinidad Mine, a hard-rock gold mine deep in Sailor Canyon; the mules left Cisco, on the railroad, and followed the Big Granite Trail past Huysink Lake, Four Horse Flat, and on down via Big Granite Creek to the North Fork, crossing a ways below New York Canyon, and on up to Sailor Canyon, and up the trail to the mine. So. Below the mine the trail is graded for loaded mules; above, it is not. It is dreadfully steep.

Passing the mine, we turned aside to visit a pretty waterfall and swimming hole on Sailor creek. An old mining ditch can be followed to the site from the main trail. Clouds had spread west from the thunderstorms and the water was cold enough to deter us from swimming. Such would be the case all day.

Continuing down the trail, we stopped at the river for a lunch break. A man passed us on the trail with a large German Shepherd carrying its own food in saddle bags. He was heading for Big Granite Creek, a couple miles downstream, with six friends, somewhere above us on the trail. He had taken these friends, now in their twenties, down to the river to camp when they were children. So this was like old times. Having been dropped off at the end of the jeep trail, they were climbing out of the great canyon to the north, on the Big Granite Trail, in a couple days.

I was hoping to make a foray up New York Canyon to see the big waterfall, but, when we reached said canyon, so little water was flowing that we gave up on that plan, and decided to mosey on down the canyon. At a certain point, we could see boulders massed in the river bed, and left the trail to explore. It was easy to cross. A nice pool was there, but once again, in the shade cast by the clouds it was just a mite too cool for any of us to swim. Thunder could be heard rumbling to the east and we fully expected to get rained on in due course.


After another break we scouted the glacial outwash terrace north of the river, and picked up a trail on its west end. We had decided to make for the confluence of Big Granite Creek, and this trail was in fact the Big Granite Trail, on its last descent to the river. We found ourselves climbing again and again until we were maybe 400 feet above the river. Then, at a broken sign reading "Sailor Canyon 2" we left the main trail on a fork Dave Lawler and I followed a few years ago which drops west to Big Granite Creek. This trail needs some brush work.

At Big Granite Creek we scrambled a short distance up to the waterfalls. I had never been farther upstream from this point. Consulting my geologic map, I saw that here, at the falls (which incidentally have deep, almost black-with-depth pools at their bases) the rocks were the meta-tuffs etc. of the upper member of the Sierra Buttes Formation. If we passed a spur ridge a short distance upstream we would enter a different band of rock, the lower member of the Peale Formation. Both of these, I think, are regarded as part of the Paleozoic "Taylorsville Sequence," which is much thicker and better exposed to the north, in Plumas County. Here it thins into narrow bands but a few hundred meters thick, all tilted up more or less vertically.

At any rate. My plans to round the spur were dashed, as we reached another deep pool, a large one at that, in a water-polished theater of rock, with a waterfall hiding in a sort of corkscrew chute at the upper end. By taking off our shoes and wading a little we were able to climb onto the bare rock and scurry along above the pool to its upper end. Here the cliff on the west side makes a gigantic overhang and one can see the water shooting into a little pool just above the main pool. It was a lovely spot. To get any higher on Big Granite Creek would require a climb of 100 to 200 feet on the cliffs to the east, where a passage looked possible. It was already late afternoon, so we left that for another day.



We forded the river at Big Granite Creek, and climbed through some mossy, poison-oaky, manzanita-y clifflets to the American River Trail a couple hundred feet above. I grabbed the strange bait juice bottle I had seen this spring, with the fisherman, a six-foot trout slung over his shoulder, embossed on one side.



Trudging upstream we passed many old mining sites and springs and some really large trees, including an Incense Cedar fully six feet in diameter, and reaching the base of the Sailor Flat Trail, trudged slowly up. Catherine, recently returned from 6000' climbs out of the Grand Canyon, led the way. Oh my goodness that trail is steep. I appreciate more than ever why some people, if they want to do a day hike like we did, will leave a car at Mumford, and go down—only down—the Sailor Flat Trail, then down the main canyon on the American River Trail, and climb out on Mumford Bar Trail. About sixteen miles altogether, and a 2800' ascent at Mumford, but, anything's got to be better than that steep climb at Sailor.

Washington Lily
(Lilium washingtonianum)

It was a very nice day kept unusually cool by the cloud cover. We saw quite a few flowers and, surprisingly, no rattlesnakes. When we reached Catherine's truck we were all more or less destroyed. We skipped Iowa Hill, sailing straight down the Foresthill Divide to Auburn and then up I-80, and at about nine o'clock we were back in Colfax.

Cheers,

Russell Towle


July 20, 2006

Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger
State Capitol Building
Sacramento, CA 95814

re: Timber Harvests Ruin Historic Trails, II

Dear Governor Schwarzenegger,

This is a follow-up to my letter of December 15, 2004, which you forwarded to (then) chief of CDF, Dale Geldert, who himself responded to me on February 22, 2005. Mr. Geldert asserted that CDF “... does recognize the importance of protecting historically important features such as historic trails.”

Mr. Geldert is so very wrong, Governor. CDF has presided over the rampant and inexcusable destruction of our old trails. If CDF recognizes the importance of the old trails, why has it approved so many timber harvest plans which led to their obliteration?

Our own U.S.G.S maps have not caught up with the destruction. On these maps, we can still trace the courses of the Big Valley Trail, the Sugar Pine Point Trail, the Long Valley Trail, the Monumental Creek Trail, the Mears Meadow Trail, the China Trail, and the Big Granite Trail, in eastern Placer County.

However, just try to follow one of these historic trails on the ground, trails which already existed before Tahoe National Forest (TNF) itself came into existence, in 1905. You will find a wilderness of stumps and bulldozer skid trails and roads and log landings, but you will be lucky to find any part of the old trail.

I would be more than happy to give you a tour of these old trails, Governor. We could hike along and merrily apportion blame between CDF, TNF, and Placer County, while using GPS technology to locate the line of some historic trail, ruined a few years ago in a few minutes of bulldozer yarding.

At any rate, we Californians ought to take better care of our old trails. Recently I joined with a group of volunteers to restore almost a mile of the Big Granite Trail, ruined by logging in 2004. It was very hard work. I myself think that land acquisition is extremely important, here in Tahoe National Forest; for the damage to these wonderful trails has occurred almost entirely on the private inholdings in the Forest.

The destruction of our old trails is actually far worse, and far more widespread and pervasive, than I can explain in a letter of this sort.

With thanks for your consideration of these matters, I am,

Sincerely,



Russell Towle
Box 141
Dutch Flat, CA 95714