Showing posts with label 1984. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1984. Show all posts

January 2 (1977, 1981, 1984, 1985, 1987, 2006, 2007)
Miscellany

“1/2/77   well. a rainy day here in the sierra, clouds right here upon us, winds, a real storm. the Big Window is in, lynn and steve and steve helped me.

seeing the big window in has inspired me, i would like to have the time and money to finish it right away, the cabin i mean. but i don't. should go down to año nuevo soon—pescadero rather—and get back to work.”

Russell Towle's journal


“1/2/81   Before dawn. Waning crescent moon hangs low in the east. Venus not up yet.

[...]

Today I'm going to take Charles and Charlotte and Jim and Mindy up to Big Valley Bluff.”

Russell Towle's journal


“1/2/84   Life is rich, and I am left-handed. Not rich myself, there is only one 12-volt light in this small cabin. So I am askew, trying to keep the shadow of my left hand at bay while I write. A cunning paradigm of my psychic stance these days? At any rate, the morbid depression (shadow of the left-hand, sinister somber) I used to dread in the winter has been kept at bay by Lovers Leap.”

Russell Towle's journal


“January 2, 1985

Morning, foggy and cool. Yesterday I went into Alta for breakfast and found Charles and. Char engaged in the same; later I joined them at their house and got involved in grading out the basement driveway with Charlie. Then we proceeded to get his truck stuck and spent about an hour extricating it.

From there I went to Shelley Yamamoto’s New Years party and gorged myself on sushi etc. I hung around for the rest of the day and watched a movie with Shelley and Carla. Carla is still living at the Rawhide. She is such a strange woman. An artist, a recluse, an attractive woman but never a boyfriend. Now her life is lived in much different terms. Without Jim, her father, she is faced with suddenly being on her own. The situation at Rawhide is not a good one for her; she never bothered to learn to drive until recently, and now must negotiate that horrendous jeep trail winding for miles along the rugged canyon wall. Yesterday she walked the five miles into Shelley's for the party rather than drive.”

Russell Towle's journal


“1/2/87

1:55 A.M. Contrary to what I wrote above [on 1/1/ 87], I mounted the bicycle and went into Shelley's and had sushi after all and then rode to the McClungs [...]

I have been starving, and a sort of hole is in my stomach, it's as though I can never really fill it. I did eat well at Shelley's tonight. Skies have cleared; maybe go skiing tomorrow with Charlie.

Night. Skies clouded back over, and I never went skiing today. No. I rode Bill's bicycle into Bill's and drank some coffee with him, showed him Larson's letter, […]

Bill gave me a ride down to Colfax today to get the rebuild kit for my slave cylinder, and kindly brought me home and waited until I fixed it; he's really been very friendly to me lately, so nice.

A big storm is said to be on its way. I cut a little firewood today. So, car is parked out on the road today.

After fifteen minutes on the stove [referring to the typewriter], the "a" has stopped sticking. If it's a lubrication problem this could only make it worse, by further drying and outgassing of the lubricant; but for awhile, the decreased viscosity compensates…”


Date: Mon Jan 02 2006 04:58:24
To: Michael Joyce
From: Russell Towle
Subject: North Fork Dam


Have you ever visited North Fork Dam?

Take Foresthill Road across the bridge, in a mile or less you reach hard left onto Lower Lake Clementine Road, follow it until it bears hard right and down towards the boat launch.

Park as soon as you can and look into the canyon beside you. You will see the dam.

Then find use trails which lead down to the viewpoint.

It is like Niagara Falls, right here in Placer County!


Date: Mon Jan 02 2006 05:13:47
To: Dan
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Re: Sailor Meadow
Cc: Patrick Kavanaugh
>I bring this up because the County is agressively building at Dewitt and I am not sure this site is safe. Just want it to be set aside if possible  but My name is "mud" at the County. Any thoughts?        Dan
My thoughts? We are paving over Indian sites every day. I made my own efforts to get the County aware of Indian sites, in the mid-80s. I failed.

I understand that new state legislation, tho, is far more protective of arch sites than anything before. I have cc'd this to Patrick Kavanaugh, who knows a lot about these issues.

However.

Most people don't know history. The whites (Europeans) stole California from the Indians. We even admitted it in 1852 when we (Europeans) negotiated treaties with the CA Indians, called the Barbour Treaties.

Among these is that negotiated with the Maidu and Chief Weimar, who made his mark on the 1852 treaty at Storms Ranch, over by what would become Chicago Park.

These treaties would have made the theft of California legal; the Indians would trade title to most of the lands in exchange for big chunks here and there ("reservations"). The Maidu reservation would have been huge, from the Bear to the South Yuba, from the Valley to Storms Ranch. Roughly.

But the U.S. Senate put the Barbour Treaties in a sealed secret archive not to be opened for fifty years.

So legal title was never obtained from the CA Indians. The treaties were forgotten as most of the Indians soon died from disease.

Finally, in 1938, the BIA renegotiated treaties with surviving CA Indians and they signed away title.

In theory, that was the legal instrument by which the theft of CA became legal.


Miscellany
[North Fork Trails blogpost, January 2, 2007:
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2007/10/miscellany.html ]
Happy new year, 2007 should be a good one!

The other day I approached my teenage son with an excellent idea: "I will first put the chainsaw in my old backpack; next, I'll put that old backpack on your broad shoulders; then, away we will go, down and down and down, into the depths of Green Valley, there to clear brush from the High Ditch."

To which he replied in a series of rather emphatic and mostly monosyllabic negatives, scarcely comprehensible, exclaimed in his curious teenage slang.

I decided not to press the issue, just then. Perhaps a negative would ripen into a maybe. A day later I recalled that the Green Valley Trail itself is getting so badly overhung by manzanita, that this business of carrying chainsaws in backpacks is maybe not an idea worthy of the brightest star in the heavens. So I rephrased my Plan: now he would carry the chainsaw a short distance, very short, really, and I would cut the gnarled deep red branches, and he would toss them off the trail.

Another series of foreign-sounding exclamations, all negative. Sigh.

So this morning I put the damn saw in the damn pack, and carried it down to the uppermost bad section all by myself. I worked over a reach of about two hundred yards and achieved something, less than I had imagined, better than nothing. The day was grey and cool and good for trail work.

Ron Gould suggests that we should round up a real work party and hit the whole trail. A good idea. The manzanita is getting worse and worse in a number of different trail reaches. Supposing we were to carry some of the dratted garbage up and out, from the end of the West Trail, down by the river, well, a frame backpack is the best tool for garbage, and the manzanita would drag and catch and claw at our packs and turn an already tiresome task into a bitter fight. So a bit of manzanita trimming is definitely in order. There are, also, one or two new trees down on the trail, which need cutting into pieces before they can be moved.

Life is more than trails and saws.

Music, music, music. Antonio Carlos Jobim! I rec'd a CD for Christmas, titled "Elis & Tom," the amazing Elis Regina singing the songs of the amazing Tom Jobim. One song especially excited my interest, Águas de Março, or Waters of March; here Jobim joins Elis in a duet. I Googled around in search of more information, for it seemed such an exceptional performance, and found a video of the actual recording session, in Los Angeles, in 1974!

What? How could that be?

It was on YouTube, of which I had heard but not seen. I naturally avoid such sites because I have such a poor internet connection, it takes forever to download content. For the Waters of March, however, forever was fine. I waited, I waited, I waited, and at last I watched.

Really really great!

So. I saw that anyone in the world can upload videos to YouTube. I quickly assembled a few short pieces of geometrical animations I had made years ago. See

https://www.youtube.com/user/rufus16180339887


 Links
Elis Regina and Tom Jobim recording Águas de Março (Waters of March) in Los Angeles in 1974: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYLoxMtnUDE

About the song on Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waters_of_March

Jobim's own beautiful re-write of the lyrics into English can be found about 1/3 down this page, (after the parallel version):
http://www.brazzil.com/p08sep01.htm


April 7 (1978, 1979, 1984, 1988, 2000, 2002)
Annoying Questions

“4/7/78 morning. the clouds are breaking up. sun shines now and again. snow falls steadily from the trees. i never made it out to ron's or lovers leap yesterday. i did get willy out and aside from the cracks in the welds nothing too drastic seems to have happened.

last night it snowed a little, only down to about 3000' elevation; it had snowed all the way down to the river yesterday morning. a little sunset color and sunrise color were a fine treat last night and this morning. i should go walk around and enjoy the snowy vista while i can. annoying questions plague my mind. why am i here on earth? what is the meaning of life? what do i want? i want to be happy.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“4/7/79 […]

i feel so frustrated that I am not working for the betterment of mankind. that the few conservation issues i involve myself in are almost worthless in terms of really helping humanity. how does the fate of lover's leap compare to the starvation and oppression that remain the fate of many people on this world?”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“4/7/84 ~ A sunny morning. Yesterday I posted letters to Brad Welton and Charlie McClung, outlining the willingness and unwillingness to sell, on the part of the property owners at Lover's Leap.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“4/7/88 Morning, cloudy, cool, hinting of rain; I was awakened early on by the perambulations of seven deer.

Near sunset, clear, breezy. Strolling through the meadow. Gazing at dogwoods from many different angles. Planning to plant Sierra redwoods and nurture them into rapid growth. ...

I made a list of the main trees and shrubs which grow on Ed's property, complete with etymologies of their scientific names (I stretched things a bit to arrive at “bear-clustering bear-berries” for Arctostaphylos uva-ursi).”

[Russell Towle's journal]


About Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Bearberry Manzanita):
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=ARUV


Confluence of North Fork American, and Canyon Creek.
April 7, 2000

Russell, Janet and Greg Towle, Gem Wiseman
April 7, 2000



Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 06:41:49 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: NCLT hike to Canyon Creek


Hi all,

Yesterday I took a group from the Nevada County Land Trust down to the North Fork via the Paleobotanist and Canyon Creek trails.

There were about ten of us. The day had begun hazy, with a diffuse mass of fog in the North Fork canyon at dawn; by 10 a.m. it had been lifted and evaporated by solar heating and in part, rematerialized as fair-weather cumulus clouds. The day was fresh and cool and lovely. Quite a few species of wildflowers are now in bloom along the trail, tho the peak bloom is still weeks away. Especially nice are the Shooting Stars high on the trail, the Houndstongue, and hundreds of Blue Dicks down lower, past the bridge. Some poppies have appeared as well.

We visited the great dark tunnel of the Gold Run Ditch & Mining Co., twelve feet wide and nine feet high where it debouches into Canyon Creek. We stopped at the first large waterfall for a while; the creek has subsided a bit, with almost no snow left now in its upper basin, but the falls remain loud and pretty. Then it was down to the Upper Terraces Trail, and up the Big Waterfall Trail, where we took a long break, admiring the falls, eating some lunch, and scouting around the strange little polished basin at the base of the falls, surrounded by angular cliffs with massive overhanging rock.

Michael Joyce and others noticed some iron bars set into the cliffs rather high above the creek, say, 50 feet above, and more. I had explained the basic strategy of hydraulic mining, and how the creek had once been lined with huge sluice boxes to re-work the tailings from the mines above, and had remarked upon the importance of keeping the gigantic volumes of muddy gravel and boulders moving through the sluice boxes. As we considered these high iron bars, in positions where one would have had to rope down from somewhere above to drill the holes and set them, I was at a loss to explain their presence. Many such bars line the creek itself and were used to anchor the sluice boxes, under tremendous strain from the tons of surging tailings. But these high bars?

Not until last night did their probable use occur to me. The thing of it is, and I know this from old newspaper accounts of the tailings claims in Canyon Creek and elsewhere, sometimes you simply could not keep up with the volume of tailings, and your sluice boxes would become buried. This probably happened many times in Canyon Creek. Then, confronted with tailings, say, twenty to fifty feet deep, one would have to set new sluice boxes in a higher position, and start to work down through the pile. So, these high bars probably represent some such event.

I also know from the old newspapers that Chinese workers were used to shovel tailings in Canyon Creek. A man named W.H. Kinder once owned this long narrow claim, and the Anti-Chinese Committee of Gold Run approached him, asking him to fire his Chinese labor and hire white labor, in 1877. Kinder lamented that he needed the Chinese for shoveling. Presumably they would work much harder, for much less pay, than the white men; this was usually the case. Charles Crocker discovered this when building the Central Pacific Railroad.

After a time we continued down to the river and took another break. The swirling puffy clouds sometimes blocked the sun and kept us almost too cool. The river was, of course, high and wild. We discussed the tragedy of the young man from Indonesia who drowned last weekend, a few miles downstream, attempting to ford the river. I cannot imagine thinking that this river could be forded, at this time of year. The thing is, nine of his friends did ford it, in chest-deep water! They must have been holding hands. They are lucky not to all have been swept away.

Soon we took the upward angle and slowly, slowly climbed out of the canyon. One of our group was not used to such exertion and just slowed down accordingly. A couple of us stayed back with him while the rest of the group forged ahead. It was nice to stop and rest many times and look around. I believe I saw a pair of golden eagles soaring thousands of feet above us. They were flirting, and I hoped to witness their remarkable courtship flights, which involve dives of hundreds of feet, a sudden spread of wings to shoot straight up, like a little eagle bullet, and then a somersault or two at the top, preceding another dive; but these two were circling, in spirals of opposite senses, coming within a few feet of one another time and again, and insensibly rising higher and higher in the afternoon updrafts, until I could see them no more.

Around 4:30 we were back atop the Bluffs, at our vehicles. Everyone agreed upon the supreme importance of BLM land acquisitions at Gold Run, to secure public access to these wonderful trails and wild canyons.

Cheers,

Russell Towle


March 31 (1984, 1993, 2001, 2002, 2011)
Survivors. And a Circumambulation.

“3/31/84    Morning. 'Tis snowing. Kelley and I actually skied and hiked down to the waterfalls on the North Fork below point 6868, after having traversed point 7373.
...

I went to work on the Lovers Leap project. Brad Welton of TPL has suggested that I contact the property owners at Lover's Leap, so I went out there to check on the telephone numbers for the brokers handling D. Ortega's parcel, and decided to head on out to the Leap for a quick look around. I found that someone had tried to block off the trail with logs, and the tracks of a pickup truck were in the vicinity. ...

The following day, I called E. G., the owner of the two 20s beside Lovers Leap. Talked to his wife, who assured me he has no intentions of selling. I did not mention the logs.

The realtors no longer list Ortega's property, and his telephone is unlisted. O. and L. are unlisted as well; so I wrote short letters to each, inquiring if their Moody Ridge land were for sale.
...

When I finally talked to Jerry M. at DFG, it was disturbing: the state wild and scenic program for the North Fork has been seriously weakened. The timber industry is strong. Ouch.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Below, 18 years later, are the very early shoots of that same cluster of Hound's Tongue plants as in the photo above, with a Kellogg's Black Oak acorn for scale. 
I photographed these shoots on March 17 of this year (2011). They are right in the middle of the yard below the “Little Cabin,’ in a high traffic area. When the kids were little we would ring them with small boulders to try to protect them during the bloom season, because they have gotten accidentally tromped on, and rolled over, have had branches, hoses, etc. dragged across them (notice the hose in the background) many times over the years! They do not suffer from the abuse. They thrive. They return year after year inexorably, brightening our world, just doing what they do, in the place where they are, just... perfect.
So, the day after I photographed those early shoots by the acorn, it began to snow. And it snowed almost every day through the 27th. It has been a mega snow year—the second greatest snow-on-the-ground depth in my 30 winters on Moody Ridge. (The first was 1982; see Russ's journal post about that snow year, on March 30). 
Those new shoots remain under the rapidly melting snow this morning. I look forward to seeing them reappear, to see what they have been doing for the last couple of weeks under there. I'll post a photo.

—Gay, March 31, 2011

March 31, 2001

Ceanothus Silkmoth
(Hyalophora euryalus)

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 08:16:42 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Circumambulation

Hi all,

Chris Schiller and I met at the Dutch Flat exit and made for Canyon Creek. With the last road into the diggings blocked, we had to go by way of Garrett Road, the Bluffs, and the Paleobotanist Trail. I fired up my GPS unit, hoping to obtain a good "track" record for the Paleobotanist and Canyon Creek Trails, with an accurate measure of the distances. I set the GPS unit to record points on the track every 1/100th of a mile, and off we went.

From the Bluffs to Potato Ravine Pass, where the Canyon Creek Trail itself begins, is .8 mile. Taking this as zero:
The trail soon joins the Indiana Hill Ditch, and leaves the ditch at .15 mile.
The Old Wagon Road is met at .35 mile.
The bridge across Canyon Creek, .65 mile.
The upper trail to the Terraces, 1.1 mile.
The great viewpoint over the river, looking east from a clifftop, 1.25 mile.
The end of the trail, where Canyon Creek meets the North Fork, 1.35 mile.

These results are somewhat suspicious. They do agree with previous GPS work I have done there, but, for instance, from the "great viewpoint," to the end of the trail is surely more than .1 mile, a mere 528 feet. It is true that these distances are measured on the horizontal, whereas the trail is quite steep in this area, so that on that count alone the actual trail distance is greater. For instance, from a geometrical standpoint, were the trail at a 45 degree angle, the actual trail distance would be exactly 1.4142135... times its horizontal projection. However, nowhere is the trail anywhere near 45 degrees.

On the way down, Chris and I visited the Inner Gorge, using the Six-Inch Trail. Here Canyon Creek has cut a deep twisting slot, with waterfalls hidden within the depths. Unless one were to rappel down, there appears to be no way to enter this part of Canyon Creek. The Inner Gorge ends at the top of the Big Waterfall. Most of the rest of Canyon Creek is itself quite gorge-like, but the Inner Gorge is strangely deep and beyond human reach. One can do little more than peer into parts of it and marvel.

We continued down to the river, noting the cliff swallows speeding about, and a pair of raptors gliding in the sun, their shadows sweeping over us. The river is of course quite high and cold, foaming, rushing, impetuous, and dangerous, with the warm weather melting the snow so quickly.

We decided to make a bit of an adventure out of our hike, leaping across Canyon Creek just above the last waterfall, where it slides through a narrow channel in the polished rock. We picked up the down-river trail, a sometimes faint-to-invisible relic of the 49ers, but bolstered here and there by dry-laid stone walls old enough to be hidden within masses of moss. This trail stays a hundred feet or so above the river, passing a deep pool, and drops back to the river near the base of Indiana Ravine. In effect we had rounded the base of the Diving Board Ridge.

Here we stopped for lunch. In spring-fed rock pools flanking the tumultuous roaring river, Foothill Yellow-Legged Frogs were active and abundant. We began to pass through zones of strongly foliated rock, in places folded into kinks and chevrons. We were either at, or nearing, the contact between the meta-volcanics to the east and the meta-sediments to the west, of the Calaveras Complex of late Paleozoic rocks, cut by the North Fork here. The canyon widens dramatically here, offering room for a large accumulation of Pleistocene, late-ice-age gravels. The main mass of these is at Pickering Bar, directly across the river from us, but on our side of the river there were, locally, significant vestiges of these same gravels. They have been mined quite heavily in places.

We kept our eyes open for the Pickering Bar Trail, but could not see where it came down to river level. Soon enough, cliffs forced us to climb away from the river's edge, though, and we soon found the trail. It forks both up- and down-river at its base. We found the remains of a tiny stone cabin, probably dating from the Gold Rush, on a flat terrace of Pleistocene gravels about a hundred feet above the river. From there we explored a trail leading downstream, and gained a nice view of the river, as it passes Sheldon Ravine, still another ravine with its headwaters high above us, in the Gold Run Diggings.

The early afternoon was amazingly warm, almost hot, as we began the climb up the Pickering Bar Trail. This trail is mostly quite steep. If you think the Canyon Creek Trail is steep, try this puppy out. It has an unrelenting, numbing, pitiless steepness to it, rarely equaled elsewhere. Traces of a lumber slide may be seen near the trail, which follows a ridge-crest just east of Sheldon Ravine.

The upper part of the trail closely parallels Sheldon Ravine, and at one point a game trail leads over to the little creek. It is incised into to slate-like rock rather deeply; a mini-gorge. Once it carried thousands of cubic yards of mine tailings from the diggings to the North Fork. Now it is a little symphony of rock and moss and ferns and waterfalls, with ancient Canyon Live Oaks spreading their gnarled, moss-dark branches overhead.

High on the trail a mass of very tough, very siliceous rocks threaded through and through with quartz veins is passed, and then just above, a small fire some fifteen years ago brought a bulldozer down the trail, more or less ruining its uppermost reaches, and spawning a dense mass of manzanita. Here I had the novel idea of leaving the trail and forging through the wilderness, to find a supposed shortcut to the road above. Well, this took forever, but eventually, all hot and bothered, we did reach the road, then entered the diggings and, passing the spot where the largest piece of petrified wood left in Gold Run was stolen a few years ago—a petrified tree trunk about fifteen feet long and two or three feet thick—we climbed up and out of the diggings, to a point on Garrett Road just south of where we had parked.

Thus we completed a circumambulation of the Diving Board Ridge. Perhaps not quite as impressive as, say, the ritual circumambulation of Mt. Kailas, a 22,000-foot peak in the Himalayas, near the sources of both the Ganges and the Brahmaputra rivers, said circumambulation being performed at about the 14,000-foot level by pilgrims from India — no, not that impressive, but a fine feat, of limited scope, on a beautiful day. Probably about six miles all told.

Cheers,

Russell Towle



February 7 (1984, 2005, 2006)
Plans

“2/7/84   Morning. The amazing, sunny weather continues. It has not inspired me to stay inside. On the contrary...

Kelley and I made a third ski trip together to the Mt. Rose area.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


BLM Planning Process
[North Fork Trails blog post, February 7, 2005:
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2005/02/blm-planning-process.html ]
The Folsom Area Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is [at the time, 2005] engaged in revising its management plan. Below please find a letter to [John Scull] with regard to this plan, in which I used a "comment form" devised by the BLM.

I hope all of you will send similar letters (emails). The BLM needs to hear from us! Please copy me if possible.
Dear Mr. Scull,

I have heard that Folsom BLM will be forming a new Resource Management Plan for the lands it administers. I wish to make some comments and suggestions, in this email, and will use your "Comment Form" as a template. I understand that I should limit myself to one topic per Comment Form; so here is one topic.

I also wish to be added to your mailing list.

Here then, are my comments:

Topic/Issue: North Fork American River
Watershed: American

I think the BLM ought to:

The BLM ought to protect the wildness, beauty, and public access to the North Fork American Wild & Scenic River, including the entire canyon and canyon rim. Use land acquisition as a principal tool. That is, continue the BLM's past efforts to purchase private inholdings in the North Fork canyon, but expand the scope of these efforts, and increase the pace of the acquisitions.

In particular, in 1978 Congress created the Gold Run Addition (GRA) to the NF W&SR. The BLM was ordered to pursue land acquisitions in the GRA. No lands have been purchased. Private lands within the GRA are currently for sale, making some 250 acres, part of 800 acres which extend through the Diggings, north, to I-80.
  • The BLM ought to buy all 800 acres for sale at Gold Run.
  • The BLM ought to close BLM lands in and around the GRA to mineral entry and quiet all existing claims. That would include the 800 acres mentioned above.
  • The BLM ought to post an OHV closure on the GRA.
  • The BLM ought to restore public access, if only by foot, horse, and bicycle, to the Fords Bar Trail at Gold Run.
  • The BLM ought to restore public access to the Paleobotanist Trail, near Garrett Road, within the GRA.
  • The BLM ought to seek to acquire every private parcel on both canyon rims, from Lovers Leap on the east to (at least) Secret Canyon on the west, to protect the viewshed, maintain open space, and preserve public access to old trails and scenic overlooks.
  • The BLM ought to acquire private inholdings on the Blue Wing Trail, northeast of Iowa Hill.
  • The BLM ought to employ a full-time resident Ranger at Gold Run.
  • The BLM ought to perform a Wilderness Study on the North Fork canyon from Green Valley on the east to Fords Bar on the west, and seek Wilderness designation.
  • The BLM ought to close the Truro Mine Road to motorized access. This road could be used as a mountain bike trail.
  • The BLM ought to restore public access to the Roach Hill Road, through to Giant Gap Ridge, if only by foot, horse, and bicycle.
Because:

The North Fork American River is quite rarely wild and beautiful, and should stay that way for the enjoyment of future generations. Already a W&SR, it could well become a National Park. Folsom BLM has done some wonderful things to preserve the North Fork, and should do more. It was frankly realized in the W&SR studies of the 1970s that the North Fork is in a rapidly growing area, and that special care would be needed to preserve the viewshed and protect public access. What was true then is only so much more true now, with millions and millions more people in California. There was urgency then, there should be even more urgency, now. Public access to our historic trails is a critical part of the future of the North Fork. Scenic values are exceptional and irreplaceable. Wild lands and open spaces are of great importance to our quality of life in California.

Russell Towle
P.O. Box 141
Dutch Flat, CA 95714

Thanks for your consideration of these matters.

Russell Towle

Visit to Canyon Creek
[North Fork Trails blogpost, February 7, 2006:
http://northforktrails.blogspot.com/2006/02/visit-to-canyon-creek.html]
Hi all,

Late this morning, on impulse, I threw somethings in my pack and drove to the Canyon Creek Trail in the Gold Run Diggings. The little bridge across the creek is gone, ripped away in the flood event of the beginning of the year. It should be replaced, and The Inimitable Julie, as well as Catherine O'Riley, have advocated immediate action.

So, one of the things in my pack was my 25-foot tape measure. I recalled the old bridge as about twelve feet long; but my recollections have become suspect, and it seemed good to measure the chasm once again.

When building a bridge one seeks a narrow crossing-point. Then the bridge will be as short as possible. Hence, in terrain like this, one seeks an "inner gorge," a place of exposed bedrock where the channel has narrowed.

This is just the case at the Canyon Creek bridge site. Except during floods, the creek is confined within rock walls six feet apart.

However, the old bridge, built in 1998, was not twelve, but a little less than fourteen feet long, I determined once I arrived. It had been made using two 2X6 joists, with 2X6 blocking a foot long nailed between them every 32 inches, and a deck of three 2X6s laid lengthwise, parallel to the joists, attached to both blocking and joists using deck screws. One end was trapped rigidly within a gap in the bedrock, the other end rested on sloping smooth rock; gravity held it in place; had it been anchored, there is a chance it might have survived this last flood. For it was a sturdy little thing. No railing; that spooked a number of people.

It was a glorious day, incredibly warm. Canyon Creek was loud, boisterous, surging clear green water with long stretches of frothing white rapids. I had hoped to jump the creek and continue down the trail, but no, it is still too high.

So I walked around and looked at the bridge site from many angles. Of course one wants a bridge which stands high enough not to be ripped out every ten years. But the higher one places the bridge deck, the longer the bridge becomes.

I determined that by raising the level of the bridge about five to six feet, its length would grow to slightly over 20 feet.

Some homemade, arched, glue-laminated beams might serve. Then, blocking as before, and a bridge deck as before. But now the bridge would stand fifteen feet above the creek, not eight feet, and a railing would become essential, and the bridge deck must be widened to at least two feet.

I saw that bobcats, or a bobcat, had been frequenting the area, pooping here there and everywhere on the water-carved and polished bedrock.

The rock here seems to be some metamorphosed volcanic mudflows and ashflows (perhaps; it would take a real petrologist with a microscope to be sure). The original strata are now tipped up near vertical. The rock seems quite siliceous and takes a high polish; it is various light colors, greys and tans, and makes a kind of fairyland of sculptured rock blades, rounded under the grinding impacts of a thousand floods. There are gigantic bolts and iron pins sprouting from the rocks, which once anchored the broad sluice boxes of the Canyon Creek Placer Mine, in the 1870s and early 1880s.

The wooden sluice boxes were lined with narrow-gauge railroad track running lengthwise, and many pieces of this "sluice iron" are now embedded in the boulder-bars along the creek. Some have been bent into giant horseshoes six feet across, by some rending flood of years gone by. Some have been worn into threads of iron—or could it be steel?—during their time in the sluice boxes.

So the sluice iron itself is rather sculptural in character. Only rarely are the pieces of worn railroad track straight.

I have always thought that a bridge might be made from this sluice iron. I have all kids of ideas about making trusses and so on. A welding torch, a drill, some half-inch bolts and so on, and voila!

But my ideas usually involve long pieces of almost-straight sluice iron. Twenty feet long, say. And there really aren't any of those. There are quite a few, though, over ten feet in length.

After an hour or so I strolled back up the trail. What a beautiful creek, what a beautiful day.



January 7 (1984, 1988, 2007)
Literary References

“1/7/84   Before dawn at Moody Ridge. The Toyota has been down for a week, and though it's fixed now, I need $121.00 to get my hands on it. My Buddha-like equanimity has served me in good stead (stood in stead? )(is this English?) over this period, but the most of the credit must be assigned to our everlasting benefactor, the Sun. I have walked and tramped merrily the many miles between Moody Ridge and the Monte Vista, bathing all the while in sunshine, stripping my shirt off, grinning like some goddamned fool at anyone who happens to drive by.

[...]

I went down to Sacramento and the Fog with Matt Bailey. We attended a Sierra Club Conservation Committee meeting. About fifteen people were there.

I described the Lovers Leap park idea to them, and they will recommend official Sierra Club approval, so that we can use their name.

We, the
Friends of Lovers Leap And Giant Gap (FLAGG)
the Citizens Leaping In Full Faith (CLIFF)
the FRiends Of Giant Gap (FROGG)
Need to get a meeting together now.

[...]”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“1/7/88 Morning, a little before dawn, dark outside, snow drifting down, Scarlatti sparkling along, the fire with muted mumble near, the scattered books recline, Plato, Regular Polytopes, Lucretius, Cicero, Caesar, algebra, analytic geometry, forms in space, all so well-thumbed, well-read and enjoyed, all the bearers of marvels, of bright light, inspiration, somehow, Homer, silver-footed dawn, Alcibiades, continued fractions, the "golden" section, atoms, polyhedra, wine-dark seas of close-packing dodecahedra, and if there were a translation of Homer I would particularly like, it would translate, literally, the metaphors, let the verse go hang, let meter fall to incoherent pieces, only give me the metaphors as Homer himself conceived them...

Hmmm. It snows, and behind all these multitudes of snowing flakes, an indeterminate white fog hides everything, so that the cabin seems perched upon a tiny island in a sea of purely nothing, perhaps perched in the Himalayas, yes the monastic retreat I always feared this place would become. I was warned, by friends, not to put cart before my horses, to find my Woman first, find my Land second; heedless, I plunged, trusted to Luck, and as Luck would have it, here I am. Alone.

Later; sunset; fog still hangs about, rain drips, drips, I write letters [...], throw them away.

Had a wonderful look at a bobcat today; it was simply sitting, out in the yard, sitting in the snow in full view, looking this way that way; sat there about three minutes, then walked away to the east, into heavy ceanothus.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Nineteen years later, on this date in 2007, Russell was exploring the online Google Books library for literary references to this region. He found the work of one Hugh Wiley, who published in 1921 a book of short stories concerning, in part, the Chinese of San Francisco. One of the stories, "Joss", includes scenes that take place in this area—Canyon Creek, Moody Ridge, Gold Run Little York and Dutch Flat are mentioned.
(A Joss House is a Chinese temple or alter.) The story gives us an answer to the question, “Where did all the gold from Gold Run end up?”




The story "Joss" begins:
At midnight Ming Sun Tai looked out upon Market Street from a window of a room in the Palace Hotel. In the room with him was a hypocrite Hindu and eight American Christians. Ming Sun Tai was the tenth member of the Finance Committee of the Associated Foreign Missions.

The lights along the street were soft in the fog which lay over San Francisco. "This will be a good night for sleeping," thought Ming Sun Tai. He yawned and realized his seventy years. He opened his check book on his knee and wrote a check for three thousand dollars. He addressed the chairman of the meeting:

"Miss King," he said, "the bank of California will honour this check. It is for the balance required for our next year's work in China. If I may be excused now, I will accept the gift of sleep with which the Gods of Night pay for the work of the day." He bowed to the chairman and again to the assemblage and left the room.

A later excerpt:
Two miles South of Dutch Flat the exploring sun tilted over Moody Ridge and dived down the slope into Canyon Creek.

A ray of the sunlight lost its energy in the labyrinth of a chinful of cool grey whiskers which stuck out of one end of a blanket cocoon which lay in the sand beside the creek.

Presently the chrysalis moved gently. "Ow—oo —Wow!" Old Moccasin West indulged in a gratifying lungful of morning air. He rolled slowly out of his blankets and reached for a pair of broken shoes which lay beside him. He put on the shoes and raked together the embers of the fire which had smouldered through the night. He picked up a battered coffee pot. He walked to where the diminished waters of Canyon Creek threaded their way through the gravel and boulders of the creek bed. With the coffee pot he dipped up a pint of water.
Read the story or download the whole book, in various versions, free from Google Books, here:

http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=cFceAAAAMAAJ&dq=inauthor:%22Hugh+Wiley%22&as_brr=0&output=acs_help
 


June 7 (1976, 1981, 1984, 2001, 2002, 2003)
Tour of Gold Run Diggings and Lovers Leap

“6/7/76 [...] yesterday i drained the water tank to work on it and walked down to where the pipe is exposed in the trench to assess the water flow. it was vigorous. plenty for my needs, even with 1 foot of head instead of the 30 i will have. suddenly i noticed something small and struggling, in the water, it was a baby bird, probably a black-headed grosbeak. i held it in my hand in the sunshine for a while as it shivered and peeped. the sorrow of my recent dream returned to me vividly. the bird was just sprouting its adult feathers. i held little hope for the bird, but sat holding it in the sun, and when partly dry wrapped it up in a kind of little nest in my wool shirt and drove over to rick and susan's. i was in a state of great concern, probably worse than the bird, as i stalked dramatically over to susan working in the garden and showed her the little thing. she took charge of it at once and we went to the house, where she made up a kind of egg-sunflower seed cooked paste and proceeded to feed the bird! it ate, it gobbled it up! i was so happy i started to cry. today the bird is doing fine over at susan's.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“6/7/81 Mid-day. Filmy cirrus clouds grace the sky. [...] Yesterday I was expecting to see a rattlesnake as I hiked about. Today, only a few strides into the walk from car to cabin, there one was, waiting, rattling, and then quickly slithering into the tall grasses. My heart raced as I debated whether to kill it or not. Rattlesnake paranoia has its season every year. The debate had the same old result: I watched it go, thinking, “Rattlesnake, I have spared you and your kind—spare me and mine.” As always, I wondered if I was a fool not to kill it.

Several Phantom Orchids still in bloom, but most have withered.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“6/7/84 cloudy, foggy canyon, wet morning…

I took the Lovers Leap petition down to the County yesterday, as Ed and I were rained out. The Supervisors' clerk, Georgia Flake, was uncertain as to procedure in such a case, so no specific spot on the agenda has been set yet.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 09:31:26 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: House at Iron Point; hearing
Cc: [list of recipients]

Hi all,

There is a little more than week to go before the hearing before the Planning Commission (PC), regarding the proposed house above Iron Point. The hearing is on Thursday, June 14 at 10:30 A.M. at the PC chambers on the end of the building at Avenue B (or C) and Richardson in DeWitt Center. The PC will hear testimony at the hearing, with a three-minute limit. They will also accept letters regarding this matter. Address letters to

Placer County Planning Commission
11414 "B" Avenue
Auburn CA 95603
re: Caretaker's Residence at Iron Point (MUP-2643)

Here is some background concerning this matter:

The parcel in question is 48 acres in size. It is within the main canyon of the North Fork of the American river, the canyon which historically was known as The American River Canyon, or as simply The Great American Canyon. The railroad, built in this area in 1866, passes through the uppermost, northernmost part of the 48 acres. The views of the canyon from the railroad are especially fine, including Lovers Leap and Giant Gap, where cliffs stand nearly 2500 feet above the river. It is these views which earned the North Fork canyon its special name. Thomas Moran (famous 19th-century landscape painter) made an etching of the view of Giant Gap from the railroad. These views of the North Fork were also the subject of many photographs taken in the 1860s by famous photographers such as Hart and Eadward Muybridge. The view was regarded as the finest along the entire 3000 miles of the Pacific Railroad. It was described in many books and magazines and newspapers of the day.

There are other scenic overlooks in this area, such as Iron Point, which lies within a few hundred feet of the southern boundary of the 48 acres. Also found here is the head of the Euchre Bar Trail, a Tahoe National Forest (TNF) trail which gives access to the North Fork American. This is a very popular trail. People value this area for its wildness and its beauty, not for its houses.

The North Fork American received designation as both a State and a Federal Wild & Scenic River in the 1970s. In the late 1970s, Placer County embarked upon the "precise zoning" of this area. Taking cognizance of the wilderness and scenic values in the canyon near Giant Gap and Iron Point, under Fred Yeager of the Planning Department, an unheard-of 320-acre minimum parcel size was applied to parts of the canyon. The 48 acres at Iron Point—surrounded on three sides by TNF land—was given a non-residential TPZ (Timber Production Zone) zoning, in an explicit attempt to prevent residential development and preserve open space near Iron Point. This zoning was approved by the Board of Supervisors in 1979. It should be emphasized that while TPZ zoning is named for timber production, its intent was largely to preserve open space and limit suburban sprawl. It was intended to be the "forested area" version of the Williamson Act. Properties with TPZ zoning are exempt from property taxes on standing timber; thus an owner of timbered lands is not forced to cut the timber to meet property tax obligations. A tax is paid only if the timber is harvested. TPZ zoning language is specific that the intent of the zoning includes preservation of open space, protection of wildlife, and preservation of recreational opportunities.

Ordinarily, to get TPZ zoning a parcel must be at least 160 acres in size. However, if contiguous parcels also have TPZ zoning, and in aggregate the parcels add to more than 160 acres, then the smaller parcel may be zoned TPZ. This is the case here, where the 48 acres is almost surrounded by TNF lands, apparently regarded as de facto TPZ-zoned lands. This brushy, lightly-timbered 48-acre parcel is classified as "Site Class V," the lowest possible ranking for timberlands, in terms of potential timber production. Although TPZ zoning is non-residential, an exception can be made for a "caretaker's residence," when 24-hour timber management must take place. This requires a Minor Use Permit.

The 48 acres has an upper, northern, more heavily forested portion, closer to the railroad, and a lower, southern, brushy section, near Iron Point. It is owned by Ron Chancellor. The applicant for the Minor Use Permit, Linda Carruthers, does not own the property. Her purchase of it is contingent upon obtaining permission to build a house there. She has a degree in Forestry and claims she wants to "manage the timber" on the 48 acres. She wants to build a 2000-square-foot house with 500 square feet of deck, on the brushy slopes facing south into the North Fork Canyon, directly above Iron Point.

After a hearing on April 4, 2001, and after receiving six or seven or so letters objecting to permitting a house on the site, Zoning Administrator Bill Combs approved the Minor Use Permit. I filed an appeal within 10 days of Combs' written decision (which cost $390). The appeal will be heard by the Planning Commission. If they approve the Minor Use Permit (and deny the appeal), and other attempts to rescind the Minor Use Permit fail (i.e., before the BOS), then, if the matter goes before the courts, the legal arguments may be limited to what issues were raised in the hearing on June 14 (or in letters submitted to the PC before then).

Tim Woodall took the time to look over the TPZ language, CEQA, and parts of the Placer County Code relevant to Bill Combs' decision granting the Minor Use Permit. Of this, Tim wrote:

>I see the hearing before the Planning Commission has been scheduled for June 14
>at 10:30 a.m. I will try to be there if my schedule allows it. Several issues
>jump out at me based on a quick perusal of the Placer County Code and CEQA:
> 1) The CEQA "categorically exempt" finding is based on a statutory
>exemption for new construction of single family residences. However, this
>exemption does not apply if the project site is in an environmentally sensitive
>location (CEQA Guidelines section 15300.2; Placer County Code section
>18.36.020); the Zoning Administrator's findings do not expressly address this
>issue. I would urge making the strongest possible showing that the proposed
>location of the caretaker's residence is in a particularly sensitive
>environment.
> 2) The finding that the project is "consistent with all applicable
>provisions of Sections 5.160 and 15.260 of the Placer County Zoning Ordinance"
>is subject to debate. Section 15.260 of the Zoning Ordinance (Placer County
>Code section 17.56.090) authorizes caretaker housing on TPZ land only where the
>principal use of the property "requires twenty-four (24) hour oversight."
>The Zoning Administrator's findings include no express finding in this regard.
>My question: what is it about timber production on a 48 acre parcel that
>"requires" 24 hour oversight?

Tim raises excellent questions here. It seems clear enough to me at any rate that this "caretaker's residence" is simply a ploy to allow construction of a house in one of the most scenic and wild areas of Placer County.

The rich and unusual architecture of the North Fork canyon—the Great American Canyon—in this area has attracted visitors for over a hundred years. Actually, for thousands of years, since the ravaged Indian village site at the springs at Casa Loma shows indications of great antiquity. Placer County itself intended that this property not have residential uses. Tahoe National Forest has been pursuing a program of land acquisitions in the North Fork American for years, in an attempt to preserve the wildness and scenic qualities of the great canyon. Placer County has formally expressed its support for the TNF land acquisition objectives, and has itself, under the aegis of the Placer Legacy, contemplated an active role in these acquisitions. Tahoe National Forest is interested in acquiring the 48-acre parcel.

The Blue Canyon deer herd uses this area as part of its winter range. Foxes, coyotes, bobcats, bears, and mountain lions call this area home, as do golden eagles. The manzanita cloaking much of the 48 acres is an important wildlife resource, but even more important is the absence of human residence in the area. A single house can have a substantial impact upon wildlife.

The North Fork of the American river canyon is a precious part of Placer County's and California's heritage. Its wildness and scenery should be preserved intact. No amount of possible increased timber production on the 48 acres, resulting from construction of a caretaker's residence and timber management, can justify residential construction within this great canyon.

Stephanie Austin-Goodman and Larry Hilberg have also offered excellent suggestions about the upcoming hearing. Larry thinks that the fact that the applicant for the Minor Use Permit is not the owner of the property ought to weigh against Placer County approval of the proposed residence. Stephanie suggested that I write letters to each member of the Planning Commission, and also wrote:

>My only other suggestion is that we arrange to have a very large public turnout at the June 14 hearing; people from as diverse a background as possible ready with a 3-minute statement, which gets submitted as part of the public record. Do you have any excellent photos of the area which we can also leave behind?

So, once again it is important to write letters (address at top). And it is important to attend the hearing. With many thanks for your consideration of these matters,

Cheers,

Russell Towle


John Krogsrud and Rex
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 15:34:02 -0800
To: North_Fork_Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Bridge Repaired

Hi all,

This morning John Krogsrud, his friend Rex, and my son Greg and I hiked into Canyon Creek with some tools and repaired the bridge. We stripped off the old, delaminated plywood, and installed the three new pressure-treated 2X6s John bought for the bridge a couple weeks ago.

The flowers remain in fine form, with the Clarkia biloba now in full bloom, and the Notch-petaled Monkeyflower still exuberant. Great patch of white Phantom Orchids up on the Bluffs.

We visited the Overlook of the Blasted Digger, and then, on the way out, followed up the creek itself, past many little pools and falls, some Foothill Yellow-Legged Frogs, and nice flowers growing from cracks in the polished bedrock. Greg slipped in and got his feet wet, then slipped and got his pants wet, then slipped and got his shirt wet, then just waded up through the pools and little falls. I went swimming at the nice pool by the Oxbow, where the creek doubles back on itself, a little upstream of the big tunnel.

Wandering Daisy
(Erigeron peregrinus)
Then it was up and out, through the diggings, back to the Bluffs by Garrett Road.

Cheers,

Russell Towle


Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 07:19:49 -0800
To: North Fork Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Visit to Canyon Creek


Hi all,

At noon Friday I met Mark Landgraf of the American River Conservancy (ARC) and took him on a tour of the Gold Run Diggings, the Canyon Creek Trail, and Lovers Leap. ARC has been working closely with the Folsom office of the BLM to acquire private inholdings along the very popular South Fork of the American River. Due to the fine efforts of Patty McCleary, ARC is now looking at the North Fork American. Several acquisition objectives are under consideration:

1. Part or all of the 800 acres in the Gold Run Diggings area, including the private land containing the Canyon Creek Trail. Some of this acreage lies within the special Gold Run Addition to the North Fork American Wild & Scenic River, as established by Congress in 1978.

2. 40 acres at the west end of Green Valley, north of the river, and almost directly across from the Gold Ring Mine, and within the W&SR corridor.

3. Several moderately large parcels within the canyon near and to the west of Fords Bar, and within the W&SR corridor.

4. A trail easement from Canyon Creek to Lovers Leap, along the rim of the canyon in Giant Gap.

We first drove out Garrett Road, which parallels the Diggings on the west, to BLM lands at The Bluffs, where a fine forest of large pines stands on gently rolling to flat terrain, which abruptly breaks away in a line of cliffs, left by hydraulic mining, facing into the huge pit of the Gold Run Ditch & Mining Co. At the bottom of the pit two shafts drop into large tunnels which converge, after a thousand feet or so, into one humongous tunnel which leads to Canyon Creek. The tunnels were fitted with sluice boxes and much of the millions of cubic yards of gravel mined from the pit flowed through these tunnels, and on down Canyon Creek through a series of other sluice boxes, to the North Fork. In 1881, three to five thousand cubic yards per day left the Diggings by this route.

So, Mark and I walked to the edge of the Bluffs and gazed out over the Diggings and down into the pit. Then we headed back to I-80 and to the "secret" road into the Diggings behind Heistercamp's, drove in to the Main Diggings Road, and followed it a mile south to the Paleobotanist Trail and the head of the Canyon Creek Trail, in little Potato Ravine. Along the way we detoured farther south to visit the more northern shaft in the GRD&M pit. The entire 400-foot-thick section of Eocene-age (55 m.y.) sediments of the ancient river had been mined away, exposing the very bedrock floor of the old channel.

Russell Towle, leading the way down the Canyon Creek Trail.
Photo by Mark Landgraf.
The day was warm to hot as we set off down the trail. The squatter's camp at the great tunnel is still there, over one month and counting. No one was present. Two tents under a large blue tarp, and a collection of mining tools, make up the camp. After admiring the tunnel and regretting the camp, we continued, and Mark was suitably impressed by the waterfalls and gorge and wildflowers of Canyon Creek.

At the river, one last waterfall plunges into a perfect pool, and a pair of Water Ouzels were actively feeding their babies in a nest near the base of the falls. We both took a swim. At first the water of Canyon Creek felt quite cold. I even called it "horrible," as I literally inched into the pool. After a swim over to look at the nest, I walked the few yards down to the North Fork itself, still flowing very high and fast from the snow-melt. I managed to stand with one foot in Canyon Creek and one foot in the North Fork, and it was then that I fully realized that Canyon Creek is, in fact, warm; the North Fork is cold. Very cold.

A slow march up the trail brought us back to my ratty little Toyota pickup with its laundry list of failed systems and idiosyncrasies (passenger-side window does not open, gas gauge does not work, engine stalls at idle speeds when warm, etc. etc. etc. etc.). It was 4:40 p.m. We drove back to the Monte Vista Inn where Mark's car had been stashed, and from there headed out to Moody Ridge and Lovers Leap.

We parked at the turn-around at the very end of Lovers Leap Road, and started down the trail to the Leap. Two ATV's were parked a ways down the trail. This is wrong. It may be about time to establish a vehicle closure on that last hundred yards of Lovers Leap Road. There is plenty of parking just before the road makes the short climb to the turn-around.

The men who owned the giant toys passed us as we descended the trail. Mark had never been to Lovers Leap, had never seen the North Fork Canyon, never imagined Giant Gap. As we began to break out of the forest into the brush tiny glimpsed of the Grand Abyss, the infinite blue depths, began to give him pause.

This is the eastward view from Lovers Leap, Placer County CA. Green Valley, a historic gold mining site,
is at lower left. Sawtooth Ridge is left center. The main North Fork American River is to its right, to the left is
the North Fork of the North Fork. Tinkers Knob is the central distant peak, on the Sierra Crest. June 7, 2003.

Then there is the cliff, with its one lovely little bulwark of solid rock, and a vast vastness of canyon, stretching away mile after mile to the high country, where Snow Mountain and Tinkers Knob preside over the upper North Fork. Other peaks to the north, such as Old Man Mountain and Grouse Ridge, are visible, as is Little Bald Mountain, more to the south, near Robinson Flat. Actually, from the parking area one can see the Crystal Range, and of course on a clear day, the Leap itself offers a very fine view to the southwest and Mt. Diablo.

The Pinnacles ridge, south arm of Giant Gap.
We spent some time figuring out where the 40 acres down in Green Valley was situated, and where those other parcels, five miles down the canyon, could be, and then, after duly admiring the views and enjoying this sacred place, we left. A couple of couples walked down just then, somewhat overly tattooed and pierced, one of the men leading a large pit bull on a rope (he appeared quite concerned that the dog might attack us), and carrying a big sack of beer. We trudged up to the car and drove back out Lovers Leap and Moody Ridge roads, to where I had left my truck, and I just had time to go home and get cleaned up before rushing over to Alta-Dutch Flat School to witness the graduation ceremony of my daughter Janet's 8th grade class.

Such was a nice day of hiking and swimming and visiting cliffs large and small.

Cheers,

Russell Towle



May 27 (1979, 1983, 1984, 1987, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2007)
In Love with the World

Gilia capitata

2007
Blue Field Gilia
(Gilia capitata)


“5/27/79 deerbrush in full bloom, with the gilia capitata beginning. i am in love with the world. it is late spring. i am putting in a garden, have burned the long-standing brush pile and worked the ashes into the soil, formed fire terraces, and now besides my spinach and peppers i have planted carrots, broccoli, onions, radishes and cantaloupe.

2005
Blue Field Gilia

(Gilia capitata)
while working on the cantaloupe beds yesterday morning i had occasion to dig out some three-year old deerbrush stumps, and also some roots of the same. i threw the stumps out into a pile for next year's firewood, and the roots i tossed into the bushes below the garden.

and then, i came home last night, and took a walk down to the garden. i was fooling around trying to center myself below the opening in the trees, a roughly circular pool of stars hemmed with doug fir and kellogg's oaks.

looking down, i saw a spot of light on the ground. it was about four or 5 inches long, and light gold, greenish-gold in color. it was much larger than the luminescent larvae i have seen occasionally. i saw more spots of light here and there on the ground. i was afraid to touch it ~ it seemed supernatural, and looking back at the cabin, it seemed to be lit from within by the same ghostly glow. yesterday was new moon so it was very dark out. i thought that perhaps i was at last truly schizophrenic, or that my third eye was Finally open.

however, when i lit a match to see what kind of thing was glowing, i found it to be one of the deerbrush roots i had dug up earlier in the day. and when i walked over to my pile of stumps, i found them to be glowing here and there where their bark had rubbed off or their stems had been freshly broken. i've never heard of anything like this. i could sit in my cabin and see them glowing 50 feet away. it was exciting. i am wondering how long this quality will last, and whether all c. interregnums do it, or all ceanothus. i suspect that the luminescence subsides as the wood dries, is oxidized, etc. hmmm.

the strange man who has been parking out at the cable for most of the past few weeks was merrily digging up the green valley trail and piling the mud into a dam below the spring at the head of the trail. i could hear him working on it from here. i walked over there and he was very apologetic and promised to shovel everything back in and fix it up. he was obviously planning on growing marijuana, and this morning i found some holes he had dug—on my property—for plants. i am going to ask him to stop parking out there if i ever see him again.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


2001
Blue Field Gilia

(Gilia capitata)
“5/27/83 Every morning for the past few days I have been working in the meadow, digging to expose the roots of deerbrush, and then cutting with my long handled pruners. I've taken out thirty or forty that way. […] There are hundreds of little ones that can be cut with a shovel—set the blade about six or 8 inches away from the plant, and with a vigorous stomp, cut the root some four inches below the surface. I'm working near the lower cedar grove now. I also remove whatever gooseberry, live oak, black oak, bush penstemon or poison oak I come across.

[…]

Birds—most, or most conspicuously, black-headed grosbeaks—singing constantly. Oak flower clusters are shaken down by breezes; pollen coats everything. I went to the laundromat the morning after digging out bushes and saw the heat and the smog building, and felt angry.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“5/27/84 6:51 A.M. a strong, warm, northeast wind arrived yesterday. […]

2007
Blue Field Gilia & Variable Checkerspot
(Gilia capitata &
Euphydryas chalcedona)
At noon or thereabouts I headed into town, but was immediately sidetracked by the sight of a beat up pickup with a load of teepee poles on top, and a few backpacks in back. No one was about, so I drove back in to take a look around; nobody; returned to find a group of nice young people untying the poles. I warned them against setting up a permanent camp in Green Valley, and found that one of them planned to ‘do a Thoreau’ and live there for a year. He had filed for mining claims, which are no longer possible on the North Fork, because it is a Wild and Scenic River. Seemed a very nice young man, and I felt badly, but remain determined to try and stop the year-around or semi-permanent occupation of Green Valley by the miner types — or anybody.”

[Russell Towle's journal]


“5/27/87 After noon; clouds have thinned and sunshine bleeds through here and there but still cool…

Today I mailed out fourteen letters w/ copies of the Larson letter. I asked for and received a special postage grant from Dave; it took fourteen 56-cent stamps to get the stuff out. Then, on impulse, I swung by Nadine's and found her home; we drank coffee […] and talked about geology. She's just moving in.

I just finished reading some geologic material she lent me; it is interesting to read modern treatments of North Sierran geology. A series of island arcs are supposed to have slid into the continental margin and there accreted themselves; the Melone's Fault zone ultrabasics are treated as segments of an old slab of ocean floor caught in the act of subduction… Nothing really that new, But discussion more detailed than I've seen until now.”

[Russell Towle's journal]



Variable Checkerspot on Wild Hyacinth or Blue Dicks
(Euphydryas chalcedona on
Dichelostemma capitatum
Sunbow
May 27, 2002
Ring-necked Snake
(Diadophis punctatus
)
Orange Bush Monkeyflower
(Mimulus aurantiacus
)
Dave Lawler, Gay Wiseman & Greg Towle, above the road
to Drum Powerhouse, while following the old Miner's Ditch.
May 27, 2007


Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 08:41:26 -0800
To: North Fork Trails
From: Russell Towle
Subject: Blue Wing Trail


Hi all,

Dean Decker of BLM wanted to thank those who worked on the Blue Wing Trail. 'Twasn't me! It was the inimitable Evan Jones and friends, on May 17, if I recall. Thanks Evan!

Dean also remarked upon ATV tracks near the base of the Blue Wing. My guess, not worth much, is that they came in on the Truro Mine Road to the east and connected across to the Blue Wing.

For those who don't know, the Blue Wing is the Iowa Hill side of the historic trail from Gold Run to Iowa Hill. It heads up at the southwest end of Roach Hill, a quarter mile off the Iowa Hill Road, maybe a mile east of Iowa Hill, is unmarked, and was badly damaged at its upper end by logging activities a decade or so ago. It switches back and forth down through shady forest on north-facing slopes. There used to be a toll bridge across the North Fork at a little inner gorge at the base of the trail. Another trail continues downstream across a very large terrace of glacial outwash. Beyond the terrace is a ramshackle cabin. The trail goes only a little ways past, to a sharp bend in the river, where a cliffy section bars further downstream progress at that level. Possibly there's something up higher.

Cheers,

Russell Towle